Dutch€centrum
Upstairs Pancakes on Grimburgwal occupies an Amsterdam canal house dating to 1539, four tables of pancakes, teapots on the ceiling, since 1961.
Signature: Sweet pancakes, Savoury bacon-and-cheese pancake
Order: The bacon and cheese pancake with apple, drowned in stroop.
Tip: Cash-only; reservations by phone a week ahead. The stairs are steep, the room is tiny.
International€€amsterdam-noord
Helling 7 in Amsterdam-Noord is a waterfront warehouse running wood-fired pizza, grills and a long terrace on the IJ, the room you book for a sunny Saturday.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Burgers, Sharing platters
Order: Wood-fired pizza with whatever the seasonal vegetable topping happens to be.
Tip: Take the NDSM ferry; book the terrace explicitly in summer.
Uyghur€€oud-zuid
Tarim is Amsterdam's halal Uyghur room on Aalsmeerweg in Zuid, hand-pulled laghman noodles, cumin-rubbed lamb skewers, dishes carried out of Xinjiang via the spice road.
Signature: Hand-pulled laghman noodles, Lamb skewers, Polo rice
Order: Laghman noodles with lamb, then a plate of cumin skewers to share.
Tip: Halal-certified; alcohol-free. Walk-ins fine on weekdays, book Friday and Saturday.
Dutch€€jordaan
Moeders on Rozengracht is the Amsterdam stamppot room, walls lined with photos of mothers from customers, the menu a Dutch grandmother's repertoire.
Signature: Stamppot, Erwtensoep, Bitterballen
Order: Stamppot of the week with rookworst sausage.
Tip: Bring a photo of your mother to add to the wall. Reservation advised.
North African€€de-pijp
Bazar on Albert Cuypstraat is the cavernous, soaring Amsterdam North African-Middle Eastern room set in a converted church, all halal, all-day from breakfast.
Signature: Mezze platters, Tagine, Couscous royal
Order: The full mezze platter with the chicken tagine to share.
Tip: Halal-certified. Big room, walk-in friendly. Pre-market breakfast is the value.
Surinamese€de-pijp
Spang Makandra has been Amsterdam's reference Surinamese counter since 1978, rolling roti, ladling saoto soep, almost nothing on the menu costing over 15 euros.
Signature: Roti kip, Bami goreng, Moksi meti
Order: Roti kip; ask for medium spice and the kouseband bean stew as a side.
Tip: Lunch only at the upstairs tables; takeaway counter for everything else.