The oldest quarter of Marseille on the hill above the Vieux Port. Pastel houses, Italian-rooted pizzerias and tiny ceramic boutiques along Rue du Panier.
Le Miramar in Marseille's 2e was founded in 1965 and is a founding member of the Bouillabaisse Charter, Christian Buffa in the kitchen running fish.
OrderThe bouillabaisse at €80, served quayside with Notre-Dame de la Garde over your shoulder.
TipClosed Monday; the front terrace looks straight at the cathedral on the hill.
Chez Madie Les Galinettes in Marseille's 2e has cooked the Provencal canon on the Quai du Port since 1995 under Delphine Roux, an affordable bouillabaisse.
OrderThe bouillabaisse at €59, half the price of the seafront rooms with the same view.
TipBook a terrace table for sunset; the Provencal stew at lunch is the value play.
Une Table au Sud in Marseille's 2e holds a Michelin star above the Vieux Port quay, Ludovic Turac at the pass since 2010 with a Provencal-Mediterranean.
OrderThe €95 lunch tasting; the best value reading of the kitchen's work.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday; book a window seat over the Quai du Port at sunset.
Chez Etienne in Marseille's 2e Panier has cooked wood-fired Marseillais pizza since 1943, no menu, cash only, the half-anchovy half-cheese the local order.
OrderThe half-anchovy half-cheese pizza, the canonical version in the city.
TipOpen Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, closed Sunday; cash only, no reservations, expect a queue.
Le Vieux Panier in Marseille's 2e on the Place de Lenche is a wood-fired pizzeria with a small terrace looking down toward the Vieux Port and the MUCEM.
OrderAny of the wood-fired pizzas; the terrace at sunset is the second order.
TipPlace de Lenche stairs descend straight to the old port; book the terrace for the view.
La Caravelle in Marseille's 2e hangs over the Vieux Port on the first floor of the Hotel Belle-Vue since the 1920s, a gathering place for artists.
OrderThe aioli at lunch with a glass of pastis on the balcony.
TipJazz concerts Wednesday and Friday October-May; book the balcony for sunset.
La Caravelle on the Quai du Port in Marseille's 2e is the first-floor mezzanine bar above the Hôtel Belle-Vue, open since the 1920s, with a tiny balcony.
TipClimb the staircase next to the hotel reception; the balcony seats six and fills first. Pastis €4 at the bar, cocktails €11-14.
Bar des 13 Coins in Marseille's 2e Le Panier is the old quarter dive on Rue Sainte-Françoise with a pavement terrace under the pastel facades.
TipPastis €3, plat-du-jour at lunch under €15; the pavement tables are the move on warm nights, cash preferred.
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