Tetedoie sits on the Fourviere hill above Lyon's old town, where Christian Tetedoie cooks a one-star menu from a glass-walled dining room with the city below.
OrderThe five-course tasting.
TipReserve a window seat; the bistro Phosphore on site is the cheaper alternative.
Soma on Place Saint-Paul in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the small Mediterranean neo-bistro from chef-owner Sarah Hamza, whose Algerian-rooted plates rotate.
OrderWhatever the chef sends; the blackboard plates change often.
TipDinner Tue-Sat, lunch Fri-Sat; book ahead, the room is small.
Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean in Vieux Lyon is Joseph Viola's bouchon in the old town, where the pate en croute won the world championship and remains.
OrderThe pate en croute as a starter, then the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua.
TipClosed Sunday-Monday; book three days ahead; service can run long.
Cafe Gadagne sits on top of the Gadagne museum in Vieux Lyon, with a shaded vine-covered terrace over the museum gardens; the kitchen runs a seasonal small.
DrinkPour-over and homemade pastries
TipWeekend brunch is the slot; the terrace opens in spring; closed Monday-Tuesday.
Boulangerie du Palais in Vieux Lyon is the praline-rose specialist run by pastry chef Sebastien Bouillet on Rue du Palais de Justice, with a queue.
Worth the queueTarte aux pralines roses
TipArrive before 11:00 on weekends for the full counter; the box of six small praline tarts is the form.
Boulangerie Saint-Paul in Vieux Lyon is the 1899-founded boulangerie on Place Saint-Paul, where a relaunch under Maison Farine took regional vice-prize.
Worth the queuePain au chocolat and country baguette
TipThe pain au chocolat is the order; arrive before 11:00 for the warm batch.
Antic Wine on Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon is the rare-wine shop and bar with a deep cellar of old-vintage French and a small bar-counter for by-the-glass.
PourBurgundy verticals by the glass
WineRare and old-vintage French
FoodCheese plates
TipThe Burgundy by-the-glass flight is the move; book the cellar tasting room ahead.
Le Florian in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the Prohibition-styled cocktail bar tucked inside a 15th-century building on Place de la Baleine, with a Venetian.
DrinkSeasonal cocktails
FoodBar snacks
TipThe linden-shaded terrace is the calmer pick; basement room is the late-night seating.
La Baguette Magique on Rue Saint-Georges in Vieux Lyon is the speakeasy hidden behind a bakery facade, run by three professional magicians who pair around.
DrinkMagic-themed signature cocktails
FoodBar snacks
TipOpen Tue-Wed 18:00-23:00, Thu-Fri to midnight, Sat 17:30 to midnight; book online for the show.
Bar de Bon-Secours on Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon is the stone-cellar speakeasy beneath an old chocolaterie, with 1920s decor, antique crystal service.
DrinkProhibition-era house cocktails
FoodBar snacks
TipPassword entry; open Thursday-Monday from 19:00; closed Tuesday-Wednesday.
Cigale on Rue de la Loge in Vieux Lyon is the gintoneria with what's likely Lyon's largest gin cellar at 100+ references, warm wood and dim lighting.
DrinkGin and tonic flights
FoodTapas
TipThe gin and tonic of the day is the order; open Tue-Sun from 18:00, closed Monday.
Creperie de Guignol at Place de la Trinité in Vieux Lyon is the Breton-style creperie with house buckwheat galettes and sweet crepes, takeaway or sit-down.
TryBuckwheat galettes and sweet crepes
TipGalette complete around €9; takeaway cider in summer is the move.
La Baguette Magique in Vieux Lyon is the late-night speakeasy behind a bakery facade where three magicians run cocktails and magic shows past midnight.
TrySignature cocktails with live magic shows
Le Florian in Vieux Lyon is the Belle Epoque cocktail bar open until 02:00-03:00 most nights, with a basement room that pulls jazz and DJ sets after midnight.
TrySeasonal cocktails
Le Florian in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the Prohibition-styled cocktail bar tucked inside a 15th-century building on Place de la Baleine, with a Venetian Renaissance room and a linden-shaded terrace since 2012.
TipSeasonal cocktail menu around 11-€14; the terrace by the linden tree is the calmer pick, the basement room livelier on weekends.
The Smoking Dog in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the family-run English pub on Rue Lainerie open since 1995, with 11 draft taps including English, Belgian and French beers, weekly pub quiz and a regular live music slot.
TipTuesday pub quiz at 20:30 is the room at its busiest; Guinness pours are reliably the best in the city.
Wallace Bar in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the Scottish-leaning pub that opened in 2005 as the city's first proper pub-restaurant, with a wall of whisky from Scotland and beyond, 16 draft beers and a weekend brunch.
TipOver 30 gins and a long whisky list; the small upstairs is calmer than the front counter after 22:00.
Look Bar in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the dim Rue du Palais de Justice room with vinyl racks behind the counter and a roaring-twenties fit-out, with the house Nuage Noir cocktail (a riff on the black russian) at €9.
TipOpen until 04:00 every night; cocktails 8-€10, the back booth is the easier seat after the front counter packs.
2h 30m
Welcome to the heart of Old Lyon, in a cozy cooking studio where you will learn how to make a praline flan or a mille-feuille, as well as homemade puff pastry.
Guided tour · 4 hours
Discover the cuisine of Vieux Lyon on a guided walking and tasting tour in one of the city's oldest districts. Explore the secret passageways and sample some delicious...
Guided tour · 2h 30m
Immerse yourself in Lyon’s culinary heart: step into Les Halles Paul Bocuse, the ultimate destination for food lovers in Lyon!
