Tetedoie sits on the Fourviere hill above Lyon's old town, where Christian Tetedoie cooks a one-star menu from a glass-walled dining room with the city below.
Signature: Tasting menu, Local Rhone produce
Order: The five-course tasting.
Tip: Reserve a window seat; the bistro Phosphore on site is the cheaper alternative.
Soma on Place Saint-Paul in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the small Mediterranean neo-bistro from chef-owner Sarah Hamza, whose Algerian-rooted plates rotate.
Signature: Blackboard plates from chef Sarah Hamza, Mediterranean produce with Algerian roots
Order: Whatever the chef sends; the blackboard plates change often.
Tip: Dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Fri-Sat; book ahead, the room is small.
Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean in Vieux Lyon is Joseph Viola's bouchon in the old town, where the pate en croute won the world championship and remains.
Signature: Pate en croute, Quenelle
Order: The pate en croute as a starter, then the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book three days ahead; service can run long.
Cafe Gadagne sits on top of the Gadagne museum in Vieux Lyon, with a shaded vine-covered terrace over the museum gardens; the kitchen runs a seasonal small.
Signature drink: Pour-over and homemade pastries
Tip: Weekend brunch is the slot; the terrace opens in spring; closed Monday-Tuesday.
Boulangerie du Palais in Vieux Lyon is the praline-rose specialist run by pastry chef Sebastien Bouillet on Rue du Palais de Justice, with a queue that runs.
Tip: Arrive before 11:00 on weekends for the full counter; the box of six small praline tarts is the form.
Worth the queue: Tarte aux pralines roses
Boulangerie Saint-Paul in Vieux Lyon is the 1899-founded boulangerie on Place Saint-Paul, where a relaunch under Maison Farine took regional vice-prize.
Tip: The pain au chocolat is the order; arrive before 11:00 for the warm batch.
Worth the queue: Pain au chocolat and country baguette
Antic Wine on Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon is the rare-wine shop and bar with a deep cellar of old-vintage French and a small bar-counter for by-the-glass.
Signature pour: Burgundy verticals by the glass
Wine focus: Rare and old-vintage French
Food: Cheese plates
Tip: The Burgundy by-the-glass flight is the move; book the cellar tasting room ahead.
Le Florian in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the Prohibition-styled cocktail bar tucked inside a 15th-century building on Place de la Baleine, with a Venetian.
Signature drink: Seasonal cocktails
Food: Bar snacks
Tip: The linden-shaded terrace is the calmer pick; basement room is the late-night seating.
La Baguette Magique on Rue Saint-Georges in Vieux Lyon is the speakeasy hidden behind a bakery facade, run by three professional magicians who pair around.
Signature drink: Magic-themed signature cocktails
Food: Bar snacks
Tip: Open Tue-Wed 18:00-23:00, Thu-Fri to midnight, Sat 17:30 to midnight; book online for the show.
Bar de Bon-Secours on Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon is the stone-cellar speakeasy beneath an old chocolaterie, with 1920s decor, antique crystal service.
Signature drink: Prohibition-era house cocktails
Food: Bar snacks
Tip: Password entry; open Thursday-Monday from 19:00; closed Tuesday-Wednesday.
Cigale on Rue de la Loge in Vieux Lyon is the gintoneria with what's likely Lyon's largest gin cellar at 100+ references, warm wood and dim lighting.
Signature drink: Gin and tonic flights
Food: Tapas
Tip: The gin and tonic of the day is the order; open Tue-Sun from 18:00, closed Monday.
Creperie de Guignol at Place de la Trinité in Vieux Lyon is the Breton-style creperie with house buckwheat galettes and sweet crepes, takeaway or sit-down.
Try: Buckwheat galettes and sweet crepes
Tip: Galette complete around €9; takeaway cider in summer is the move.
La Baguette Magique in Vieux Lyon is the late-night speakeasy behind a bakery facade where three magicians run cocktails and magic shows past midnight.
Try: Signature cocktails with live magic shows
Le Florian in Vieux Lyon is the Belle Epoque cocktail bar open until 02:00-03:00 most nights, with a basement room that pulls jazz and DJ sets after midnight.
Try: Seasonal cocktails
Le Florian in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the Prohibition-styled cocktail bar tucked inside a 15th-century building on Place de la Baleine, with a Venetian Renaissance room and a linden-shaded terrace since 2012.
Tip: Seasonal cocktail menu around 11-€14; the terrace by the linden tree is the calmer pick, the basement room livelier on weekends.
The Smoking Dog in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the family-run English pub on Rue Lainerie open since 1995, with 11 draft taps including English, Belgian and French beers, weekly pub quiz and a regular live music slot.
Tip: Tuesday pub quiz at 20:30 is the room at its busiest; Guinness pours are reliably the best in the city.
Wallace Bar in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the Scottish-leaning pub that opened in 2005 as the city's first proper pub-restaurant, with a wall of whisky from Scotland and beyond, 16 draft beers and a weekend brunch.
Tip: Over 30 gins and a long whisky list; the small upstairs is calmer than the front counter after 22:00.
Look Bar in Lyon's 5e Vieux Lyon is the dim Rue du Palais de Justice room with vinyl racks behind the counter and a roaring-twenties fit-out, with the house Nuage Noir cocktail (a riff on the black russian) at €9.
Tip: Open until 04:00 every night; cocktails 8-€10, the back booth is the easier seat after the front counter packs.