Eat in kadıköy, Istanbul

Çiya Sofrası ★ 4.8

Chef Musa Dağdeviren's culinary-anthropology lokanta in Kadıköy market, plating regional Turkish dishes drawn from his fieldwork since 1998.

Signature: Kebap of the day, Forgotten Anatolian stews, Vegetarian dolma

Çiya Kebap ★ 4.4

Çiya Kebap, the original 1987 sister to Çiya Sofrası on the opposite side of Güneşlibahçe in Kadıköy market, fires kebabs, lahmacun and pide from a single charcoal grill.

Signature: Pistachio kebap, Lahmacun, Pide

Borsam Taşfırın ★ 4.2

Borsam Taşfırın in Kadıköy, a stone-oven lahmacun and pide salon running since 1968 with a counter line that turns over every five minutes at lunch.

Signature: Lahmacun, Kıymalı pide, Yumurta pide

Borsam Taşfırın ★ 4.2

Borsam Taşfırın in Kadıköy, pulling stone-oven lahmacun and pide since 1968 from a glass-fronted counter on the Bahariye side of Caferağa.

Worth the queue: Sucuklu pide

Mado Caddebostan ★ 3.8

Mado on Bağdat Caddesi, the Maraş-origin Kanbur-family ice-cream brand whose first Istanbul branch opened in Caddebostan, famous for the stretchable salep dondurma that needs a knife and fork.

Worth the queue: Kahramanmaraş dövme dondurma

Viktor Levi Moda ★ 4.2

Viktor Levi Moda, the 1914 Beyoğlu wine house revived on the Asian side in 2022, a wooden Ottoman-era room with a long garden and a Turkish list curated by the Büyükerol family.

Signature pour: Viktor Levi house wine

Wine focus: Heritage Turkish wines

Food: Mezze and grilled mains

Borsam Taşfırın Kadıköy ★ 4.2

Borsam Taşfırın in Kadıköy, the 1968 stone-oven lahmacun counter that turns a single 15-minute bake into the city's most reliable lahmacun under 80 lira.

Try: Lahmacun and pide

Bira Fabrikası Kadıköy ★ 4.1

Bira Fabrikası in Kadıköy, the Asian-side beer bar rotating Turkish craft taps from Gara Guzu, Pera, Torch and a small import list, with a tight bar-food menu.

Kadıköy Çarşısı ★ 4.7

Kadıköy Çarşısı, the Asian-side produce maze threaded through Güneşlibahçe Sokak, the city's most concentrated food market with Aegean fish, Anatolian cheeses and roasted nuts.

Kadıköy Salı Pazarı ★ 4.0

Kadıköy Salı Pazarı, the Tuesday and Friday neighbourhood bazaar in Göztepe, a covered market floor stacked with cheap seasonal produce, pickles, second-hand goods and vinyl.

Borsam Taşfırın ★ 4.2

Borsam Taşfırın in Kadıköy, an 80-lira lahmacun from a stone oven, three to a person at the lunch peak, in a market-edge counter open since 1968.

Try: Lahmacun