Eat in Dongnae and Oncheonjang, Busan

Momos Coffee Oncheonjang ★ 4.7

Momos Coffee began at this Oncheonjang corner of Busan in 2007 and grew into the roaster whose barista Jooyeon Jeon won the 2019 world title.

Signature drink: Hand drip of the day

Tip: Order through the smart-order kiosk, then take the hanok-style garden seats out back.

Lee Heung Yong Bakery ★ 4.3

Lee Heung Yong runs Busan's master-baker shops, and the Busan University branch keeps salt bread and myeongnan baguettes coming from the ovens.

Tip: The myeongnan baguette at 3,500 won is the Busan-only order; get it warm if you can.

Worth the queue: Myeongnan baguette

Hurshimchung Brau ★ 4.0

Hurshimchung Brau pours German-style dunkel beside the Oncheonjang hot springs in Busan, a Hotel Nongshim brewhouse of steins and smoked chicken.

Signature drink: Dunkel by the 600cc stein

Tip: Soak in the Hurshimchung spa first, then take a 600cc dunkel with the sausage board.

Hurshimchung Brau ★ 4.0

Hurshimchung Brau pours German-style dunkel beside the Oncheonjang hot springs in Busan, a Hotel Nongshim brewhouse of steins and smoked chicken.

Tip: Soak in the Hurshimchung spa first, then take a 600cc dunkel with the sausage board.

Dongnae Halmae Pajeon ★ 4.5

Dongnae Halmae Pajeon has griddled Busan's definitive green-onion pancake for four generations, in the old district that gave the dish its name.

Order: Dongnae pajeon, 28,000 won, thick with spring onion and seafood.

Why locals love it: The fourth-generation home of Busan's court-recorded pajeon sits in old Dongnae, far from every tourist artery.

Tip: The pajeon comes custardy in the middle by design; order the conch as the second plate.

Momos Coffee Oncheonjang ★ 4.3

Momos opens at half past seven in Oncheonjang, Busan, and its pastry case and world-class filter coffee make the city's best light breakfast.

Order: Hand drip of the day with the focaccia or a financier from the bake case.