The 19th-century wine merchant quarter north of the centre, now full of antique shops, natural-wine bars and small-plate kitchens hidden behind old quay-side facades.
Symbiose in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the bistronomic dining room and speakeasy on Quai des Chartrons, run by four young partners with seasonal small plates.
Signature: Tasting menu, Sea-driven small plates, Speakeasy cocktails
Tip: Book the dinner sitting; the cocktail bar behind the bookshelf takes walk-ins only and stays open until 01:00.
Racines in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the neo-bistro on Rue Georges Bonnac with a single daily set menu, French market produce and a small but considered.
Signature: Daily market menu, Roasted bone marrow, Seasonal vegetable plates
Tip: Tables turn fast at dinner; lunch is by far the calmer service and the daily set is around €28 for three courses.
Le Carre on Place du Marche des Chartrons is the Brice Nougaret and Benoit Vicq bistro since 2007, with a southwestern French menu of grilled meats.
Signature: Toulouse sausage, Beef tartare, Grilled veal kidney
Tip: The lunch blackboard turns over quickly; evenings are the fuller, more festive service. Closed Sunday; book at least a few days ahead in summer.
Chez Dupont on Rue Notre-Dame in the Chartrons is the rustic stone-walled neighbourhood bistro run by the same couple since 1988, with retro posters.
Signature: Daily plat du jour, Magret de canard, Aquitaine cheese plate
Tip: Continuous service Monday-Saturday from 12:00-23:00; Sunday lunch only.
Maison Nouvelle in Bordeaux's Chartrons is Philippe Etchebest's two-Michelin-star table on Rue Rode, opened December 2021 and confirmed at two stars.
Tip: Friday lunch is the only midday service; book the dining room two months ahead for dinner and ask for the corner table looking onto Rue Rode.
Chez Dupont in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the cozy Rue Notre-Dame neighbourhood bistro with seasonal French dishes and a regulars-only feel at the zinc bar.
Signature: Daily plat du jour, Magret aux baies, Charcuterie maison
Tip: Book by mid-morning for evening service; the kitchen leans into one or two specials a night with a chalkboard rewrite.
La Pelle Cafe in Bordeaux's Chartrons is Carlos Pereira's specialty roastery and coffee bar on Rue Notre-Dame, opened 2016, with an imposing roaster.
Signature drink: Single-origin filter
Tip: Pereira co-founded Coutume in Paris before moving south; the roasted-on-site filter rotation is the easiest order at the counter.
4eme Vague Cafe in Bordeaux Chartrons is the Hawaiian coffee specialist on Rue Notre Dame. The owner imports Kona, Kau and Maui beans direct from the islands.
Signature drink: Hawaiian Kona, Kau, and Maui single-origin espresso
La Pelle in Bordeaux's Chartrons is Carlos Pereira's specialty coffee bar and roastery on Rue Notre-Dame, opened 2016, with the imposing in-shop roaster.
Tip: Pereira co-founded Coutume in Paris before relocating to Bordeaux; the Saturday morning queue for the cinnamon roll and filter set is the local tell.
Sources from: Brazil, Ethiopia, Colombia, Burundi
How they serve: Espresso, Pour over, Whole bean retail, Wholesale
Le Sobre Chartrons on Bordeaux's Chartrons quay is the riverfront wine bar of vigneron Jean and merchant Pierre, with two air-conditioned rooms.
Signature pour: 32 wines by the glass rotating across French regions
Wine focus: 1000 bottles selected by an in-house sommelier team
Food: Finger food and chef plates by Chef Davy
Tip: The terrace catches the late sun on Quai des Chartrons; the chef plates by Davy are designed to share with the by-the-glass flights.
Symbiose Cocktail Bar in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the speakeasy behind the bookshelf at Symbiose, with homemade syrups, forgotten ingredients and a working.
Signature drink: Homemade-syrup signature cocktails
Food: Bistronomic small plates
Tip: No reservations on the cocktail side; arrive 19:00 to claim a stool or stay through dinner for a guaranteed seat.
BBF Bordeaux Beer Factory in the Chartrons is the citys best-known urban brewpub with six permanent house beers on tap, brewing sessions and a bottle shop.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; brewery tours run on Saturdays at 14:00 and book up through the BBF site a week ahead.
Bordeaux Beer Factory in the Chartrons is the urban brewery of Nicolas Colombier and Paul Verdure, founded 2015, with six permanent house beers.
Tip: The Thursday and Friday evening brewpub is the most generous tasting; ask for the Mosaic Session and the Macis Stout.
Marche des Quais in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the Sunday-only producer market along Quai des Chartrons, with around 70 stalls between Hangars 14.
Tip: Arrive by 11:00 for oyster tables; the food stalls run until 15:00, the producers pack up at 13:00.
The Gastronome in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the English-language cooking studio on Quai des Chartrons, immersing small groups in French and Aquitaine technique.
Tip: All-day cooking-and-market session is the standout; classes finish with a long lunch of what was cooked.
Le Caillou Jazz in Bordeaux's Bastide is the bistro and jazz club at the Botanical Garden, with concerts Wednesday to Saturday, a working dinner menu.
Tip: Music is free with a drink or meal purchase; sit on the terrace in summer for the garden setting.
Symbiose Speakeasy in Bordeaux's Chartrons is the hidden cocktail bar behind the bookshelf at Symbiose, with homemade syrups, forgotten ingredients.
Tip: No reservations on the speakeasy side; arrive 19:00 to claim a stool or stay through dinner for a guaranteed seat.