Working-class and immigrant Bordeaux, anchored by the Marche des Capucins and the basilica. Late nights, Maghrebi grills, kebab counters, oyster stalls before 14:00.
Creperie Saint-Michel in Bordeaux's Saint-Michel is the Place Saint-Michel galette counter with buckwheat savoury and white-flour sweet crepes.
Try: Galettes and crepes
Tip: Galettes from €6; pair the complete with cider for €11 menu, the cheapest sit-down meal on the square.
Marche Saint-Michel in Bordeaux's Saint-Michel is the working-class outdoor market on Place Meynard around the basilica, with around 60 stalls of vegetables.
Tip: The Saturday market is the largest; produce is cheaper here than at Capucins but the variety is narrower.
Creperie Saint-Michel on Place Saint-Michel is the cheapest sit-down meal on the square, a buckwheat complete galette with cider menu under €14.
Try: Complete galette and cider menu
Tip: The Brittany cider arrives in proper bowls; eat outside on the cobbled square for the Saint-Michel basilica view.
Le Bosphore in Bordeaux's Saint-Michel is the halal Turkish grill on Cours de la Marne, with iskender plates, kebabs and Adana skewers at neighbourhood.
Try: Iskender plate
Tip: Open daily from lunch until 23:00; the lunch menu including a soft drink is €13.
Pulp Club Quartier Libre in Bordeaux's Saint-Michel is the cafe-concert bar on Rue des Vignes, running free live jazz, blues and funk sets every evening.
Try: Tapas, charcuterie boards and cocktails
Order: Charcuterie and cheese board with a glass of Bordeaux red
Tip: Concerts start around 21:00 Tuesday to Saturday with free entry; sit on the tree-filled terrace before the band kicks.
Le Bar du Coin in Bordeaux's Saint-Michel is the cheap neighbourhood dive on Place Saint-Michel, with €3 pints, a jukebox in the corner and a regulars-only.
Tip: Pints are some of the cheapest in central Bordeaux; the terrace looks straight at the basilica.