The high-end retail core between Cours de l'Intendance, Allees de Tourny and Cours Clemenceau. Fine dining, hotel bars and the Grand Theatre.
La Boite a Huitres in Bordeaux's Cours du Chapeau Rouge is the historic oyster house steps from the Grand Theatre, with a sloped terrace and oysters.
Signature: Arcachon oysters, Belon oysters, Plateau de fruits de mer
Tip: Belon oysters run €45 a dozen, the Arcachons closer to €18; a half-bottle of Entre-deux-Mers is the locals' pairing.
Le Pressoir d'Argent in Bordeaux's InterContinental hotel is the two-Michelin-star room where Gordon Ramsay's Bordeaux kitchen presses Breton lobster on one.
Tip: The Breton lobster a la presse is the signature; the room is jacket-recommended and pours one of the strongest Bordeaux lists in the city.
Le Chapon Fin in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the 1825 institution with the Belle Epoque rocaille grotto interior by Alfred Cyprien-Duprat.
Tip: The grotto room is the city's most theatrical dining room; lunch on Tuesday and Wednesday is the calmest walk-in window.
Le Quatrieme Mur in Bordeaux's Grand Theatre is Philippe Etchebest's one-Michelin-star brasserie under the colonnade, with a high-end terrace looking.
Tip: The brasserie side at lunch is the price-friendlier entry; the starred dining room takes evening bookings only.
Le Ballion in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the resto and dancing bar on Rue Mably, with a three-course lunch formula at €25, an evening tapas card from €8.
Signature: Three-course lunch formula, Sharing tapas board, Plat du jour
Tip: The lunch formula at €25 is the quietest visit; book dinner on Wednesday or Thursday before the weekend DJ sets pack the room.
Cafe des Quatre Soeurs in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the 1830s brasserie on Cours du 30 Juillet where Richard Wagner is said to have stayed.
Signature: Plateau de fruits de mer, Magret aux cepes, Cassoulet
Tip: The terrace looks straight at the Allees de Tourny; lunch service is slower than dinner but the kitchen is on form earlier in the day.
Le Comptoir Cuisine in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the all-day brasserie under the InterContinental's portico on Place de la Comedie, with a working.
Signature: Plateau de fruits de mer, Sole meuniere, Cote de boeuf
Tip: The portico terrace gives the best people-watching seat in the centre; service runs from 11:00 to 23:30 daily.
L'Alchimiste in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the Rue de la Vieille Tour coffee bar and roastery, opened 2014 and now supplying many of the city's specialty.
Signature drink: Single-origin espresso
Tip: The minimalist room has only counter seating; the boutique sells the same beans to take home, prices from €12 a bag.
Kuro Espresso Bar in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the compact specialty-coffee counter on Rue Mautrec, near Place de la Comedie and opposite the Monument.
Signature drink: Espresso
Tip: Counter seating only and small; the takeaway is the move during peak morning hours. Closed weekends.
Baillardran in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the canele specialist on Cours de l'Intendance since 1988, with the city's most-quoted version.
Tip: Buy two sizes, the small and the regular; eat the regular the day of purchase and freeze the small for later.
Worth the queue: Cannele de Bordeaux
La Toque Cuivree in Bordeaux is the Place Gambetta canele house with multiple boutiques across the city, the most enduring head-to-head competitor.
Tip: The minis are great for sharing; the gluten-free version is a serious effort and stocks early on Saturdays.
Worth the queue: Cannele de Bordeaux
Boulangerie Louis Lamour on Rue Ravez is the artisan bakery from Louis Vaughan, an Eric Kayser and Grande Epicerie alumnus who reconverted to bread.
Tip: Bread fills the shelves at 08:00; the pain de campagne goes by 13:00 most days and there is no afternoon bake. A second boutique sits at 22 Place Gavinies.
Worth the queue: Pain de campagne au levain
L'Alchimiste in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the city's pioneer specialty roaster, opened 2014, with two cafes, a training programme and a wholesale book.
Tip: Beans rotate weekly; the El Salvador and Rwanda lots have been the consistently best-rated of the seasonal arrivals.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Guatemala, Burundi
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail, Wholesale
Le Bar a Vin du CIVB in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the wine council's tasting bar in the 18th-century Maison du Vin. At 3 Cours du 30 Juillet.
Signature pour: Pessac-Leognan white by the glass
Wine focus: Bordeaux appellations across all colours
Food: Cheese, charcuterie, tartines
Tip: Pours from €3 to €9, the cheapest tasting flight in Bordeaux; bring an empty stomach for the cheese plate.
Bordeaux Magnum in the Golden Triangle is the wine shop and tasting room on Rue Gobineau between Allees de Tourny and Place des Quinconces. At 3 Rue Gobineau.
Signature pour: Magnum bottles by the glass
Wine focus: Bordeaux fine wines and large formats
Food: Charcuterie and cheese
Tip: Tasting starts most afternoons from 16:00; the staff will open magnums by the glass on request for two or more.
Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery on Cours de l'Intendance is the high-end Enomatic wine bar with 50 of the 1855 classified Medocs and Saint-Emilion grands crus.
Signature pour: 1855 classified Medoc by the dose
Wine focus: Grand cru classes by the glass
Food: Cheese, charcuterie
Tip: Build a flight across Margaux, Saint-Julien and Pauillac for an Atlantic-Medoc comparison; pours start around €9.
Bar de l'Hotel de Seze in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the hotel cocktail bar of the 18th-century townhouse on Allees de Tourny, with a leather-banquette.
Signature drink: Classic French cocktails
Food: Charcuterie boards
Tip: Best for a pre-dinner drink before the Grand Theatre; the bar opens to non-residents from 17:00 every evening.
Marche des Grands-Hommes in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the covered circular market in the Place des Grands Hommes shopping centre, with around 30 stalls.
Tip: Sit downstairs for a fast lunch from the Lebanese counter or the rotisserie; open daily except Sunday afternoon.
Les Epicuriales transforms the Allees de Tourny into an open-air dining quarter for nearly three weeks, with around twenty restaurants serving €15 lunch menus and evening dinners hosted by starred chefs and Aquitaine producers.
Tip: Entry is free; lunch sittings run quickly and turn over in under an hour, the headline starred-chef dinners ticket separately and book out fast.
Ecole du Vin de Bordeaux in the Golden Triangle is the wine council's tasting school in the 18th-century Maison du Vin, with workshops from two hours to a full day covering 65 appellations in French, English, German and Japanese.
Tip: Book the 2-hour Introduction workshop in English at €45 for the highest value; weekday afternoons book up two weeks ahead.
Bordovino in the Golden Triangle runs small-group blending and tasting workshops on Rue d'Enghien, with two-hour sessions that walk through aroma, nose and grape variety before finishing on a French aperitif of charcuterie, cheese and dark chocolate.
Tip: Book the morning blending workshop in English; groups cap at 12 and pair every flight with a regional bite.
Le Comptoir Cuisine in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the late-running brasserie at the InterContinental's portico, with a kitchen open until 23:30.
Try: French brasserie classics, oysters
Order: Oyster plateau with a glass of Pessac white
Tip: Last orders 23:00.