Cookhouse ★ 4.4
Cookhouse in Bolton Hill is chef George Dailey's restored 19th-century rowhouse, plating pan-seared John Dory with chanterelles and foie-gras croquettes.
Order: The pan-seared John Dory with chanterelles.
Tip: The restored rowhouse parlour is the prettiest dining room in the city; reserve the front room.