Small thick masa rounds fried in a shallow pan of lard, then dressed straight from the heat with red or green salsa, shredded meat and raw onion. Eaten four or five at a time, standing up.
Chalupas are the everyday street plate of Puebla and the fastest thing on any antojitos counter. The masa rounds are pressed a little thicker than a tortilla, dropped into hot lard and dressed in the pan rather than after, which is what separates a Puebla chalupa from the versions sold elsewhere in Mexico. Vendors work the comal behind El Parian and along 5 Norte, and the order is always plural: five for a few pesos is the standard portion. Antojitos Las Gueras on 5 Norte and La Casa del Mendrugo on 4 Sur both cook them to order rather than holding them warm.
Comal looks straight at Puebla cathedral from 16 de Septiembre, cooking blue-corn chilaquiles, chanclas, pelonas and mole poblano from breakfast to midnight.
OrderBlue-corn chilaquiles at breakfast, chanclas in guajillo salsa after dark.
TipThe upstairs tables look straight at the cathedral, and they are the first to go on Saturday and Sunday mornings.
Explore the trails that connected the Aztec empire and walk between Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl, feel the power of the earth under your feet, and see an active volcano.