History

Roti canai arrived with Indian Muslim migrants and became Malaysia's breakfast handshake: dough rested in ghee, spun to translucence, folded and pressed on a flat iron griddle. Penang's most famous version is a stall with no signboard on Transfer Road, at its pans for around half a century, where regulars order the roti drowned in curry before 11:00 or go without. The flip is theatre, but the rest matters more: long rests, generous fat and a griddle at the right heat.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy (ghee), Egg

Make it at home

Yield Makes 6 piecesHands-on 40 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 500g plain flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 220ml water and 2 tablespoons condensed milk
  • 120g ghee or butter, softened, plus more for coating
  • Dhal or chicken curry to serve

Method

  1. Knead flour, salt, sugar, egg, condensed milk and water into a soft, smooth dough, about 10 minutes.
  2. Divide into 6 balls, coat each generously in ghee, and rest covered at room temperature at least 4 hours or overnight.
  3. On an oiled counter, flatten a ball and stretch it paper-thin from the centre outwards until you can see through it; tears are acceptable.
  4. Gather the sheet loosely into a rope, coil it into a snail, tuck the end under and rest 10 minutes.
  5. Flatten each coil to a palm-sized round and griddle in a little ghee over medium-high heat, 2 minutes a side, until blistered gold.
  6. Clap the hot roti between your hands to shatter the layers, and serve at once with dhal or curry.

Tip from the editors. The overnight ghee rest does the work the flip only shows off; short-rested dough fights back and never goes translucent.

Where to eat roti canai

Roti canai in Penang

Roti Canai Transfer Road ★ 4.4

Malaysian$george-townMon-Sat 07:00-12:00; Sun 07:30-12:00; curry often gone by 11:00

Roti Canai Transfer Road has flipped flaky flatbread at its roadside stall for around half a century, Penang's definitive curry-flooded breakfast.

Try: Roti canai banjir

Tip: Ask for banjir, flooded with curry, and add a curried egg; go before 11:00 because the gravy pots empty first.

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