Omoide Yokocho in Tokyo's Shinjuku is the post-war yakitori alley north of the west exit, 70 tiny eateries seating six to eight each. Highballs and grilled meat.
Food program: 70 yakitori, grilled offal, ramen stalls
Tip: Most stalls open from 17:00; weekend nights are tight. Bring cash and a willingness to share a counter.
Address: 1-2 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0023
Shinjuku Golden Gai in Tokyo's Kabukicho is six narrow alleys of 200 themed bars, each seating four to ten guests. Music, film, literature, every micro-genre.
Signature drink: Whatever the master pours
Food: Snacks, occasional small plates
Tip: Many bars charge a 500-1,500 yen seating fee. Look for English-friendly signs or guided tours after 21:00.
Bar High Five in Tokyo's Ginza is Hidetsugu Ueno's basement cocktail counter, on the World's 50 Best Bar list a decade running. Hand-cut ice, custom drinks to taste.
Signature drink: Custom-made spec to your preference
Food: Replenished complimentary snacks
Tip: Cover charge is 1,000 yen with snacks. Open Mon-Sat from 17:00, closed Sundays and national holidays; arrive early for a seat at the counter.
Star Bar Ginza in Tokyo's Ginza is Hisashi Kishi's pressed-tin temple of classic cocktail technique since 2000. The signature Sidecar is the order on a first visit.
Signature drink: Sidecar with hand-cut Ninja ice
Food: Tinned snacks, charcuterie
Tip: Cover charge applies. Wear smart casual; phone reservations are accepted but the standing space at the counter turns fast.
Fuglen Tokyo in Tokyo's Tomigaya turns into a Scandinavian cocktail bar after 19:00. Norwegian-trained bartenders, vintage Scandinavian furniture, all for sale.
Signature drink: Aquavit-based cocktails by Halvor Digernes
Food: Norwegian brown cheese, light snacks
Tip: Open until 01:00 Wed-Sun. The aquavit Old Fashioned is the move; Mondays and Tuesdays close at 23:00.
