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OkonomiyakiOtemachi
Nagataya griddles Hiroshima okonomiyaki two blocks from the A-Bomb Dome, and is one of the few counters in the city with plant-based versions.
OrderThe standard soba okonomiyaki, or one of the plant-based versions
TipVegan and vegetarian okonomiyaki both sit on the board, cooked in vegetable oil and listed on the English menu.
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OkonomiyakiNishi Ku
Lopez in Hiroshima is run by a Guatemalan okonomiyaki cook in Kusunoki-cho, and the jalapenos on the griddle are the reason people cross town.
OrderVegetables, pork and egg with soba, plus jalapenos on top
TipThe counter is small, opens only in the evening from 16:30 and shuts all weekend, so plan a weeknight visit.
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OkonomiyakiEkimae
Reichan is the veteran okonomiyaki counter inside ekie at Hiroshima Station, running from late morning through to the last shinkansen crowd of the day.
OrderSoba okonomiyaki, 790 yen with noodles
TipSquid and prawn toppings are the house extras here; the plain soba version is the fastest plate off the griddle.
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RamenShintenchi
Bakudanya is the Shintenchi shop that pushed Hiroshima tsukemen beyond the city: cold noodles dipped in a chilli and seafood-stock sauce you grade yourself.
OrderHiroshima tsukemen, choosing your own heat level
TipThe dipping sauce comes in graded heat steps, so order low on a first visit and add chilli powder at the table.
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RamenEba
Chukasoba Youki has cooked one dish in Eba since 1958, and its soy and pork-bone bowl is exactly what Hiroshima people mean when they say chuka soba.
OrderChuka soba, the only thing the kitchen makes
TipThe Eba flagship shuts on the 1st, 12th, 13th and 26th of each month, so check the date before crossing the river.
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RamenOtemachi
Musashibo serves Hiroshima's broth-free tantanmen a short walk from the Chudenmae tram stop, ordered by vending machine and graded by heat at no extra cost.
OrderShirunashi tantanmen, stirred thirty times before eating
TipHeat runs on a four-step scale with level two as the house standard, and stepping up costs nothing extra.