The places in Verona the guidebooks miss.
The places in Verona the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
Osteria da Ugo is a italian room in Verona. Book the pearà bollito Sunday slot 48 hours out (October to March); the exposed-beam rooms seat 35.
Why locals love it: Tucked 200 metres from Juliet's House on a quiet alley; tourists walk past the entrance every day.
Tip: Book the pearà bollito Sunday slot 48 hours out (October to March); the exposed-beam rooms seat 35.
Trattoria Arco dei Gavi on Corso Cavour in San Zeno is the rustic 20-seat trattoria for the residential crowd, pouring only Valpolicella Classico.
Why locals love it: Rustic 20-seat spot south of the pedestrian zone in residential San Zeno where non-locals are rare.
Tip: Book 4 days ahead; the 20 seats fill from regulars and the kitchen runs only Valpolicella Classico on the wine list.
Ostregheteria Sottoriva 23 is under medieval arcades on the old roman sottoriva road; tiny terrace overlooks the adige river with four tables only.
Why locals love it: Under medieval arcades on the old Roman Sottoriva road; tiny terrace overlooks the Adige river with four tables only.
Tip: Walk in before 18:30 for the river-view terrace; the Amarone-braised pork cheek is the must-order.
Romeo Restaurant on Vicolo Sant'Andrea is the elegant 18-seat dining room on a quiet side street with a private-club feel and a soft-jazz programme.
Why locals love it: Elegant 18-seat room on a non-touristy side street feeling like a private club with soft jazz.
Tip: Book three weeks out; the room only seats 18 and tables turn once per service.
Trattoria da Ropeton is veronetta-side family trattoria across the river from the tourist crush; the room fills with locals for carnival gnocchi season.
Why locals love it: Veronetta-side family trattoria across the river from the tourist crush; the room fills with locals for Carnival gnocchi season.
Tip: Walk in for lunch; the gnocchi specials run daily through Bacanal del Gnoco week in February.
Osteria Caffe Monte Baldo in Verona: Standing-counter cicchetti bar with locals filling the marble bar for ombra circuit at 11:00 and 18:00.
Why locals love it: Standing-counter cicchetti bar with locals filling the marble bar for ombra circuit at 11:00 and 18:00.
Tip: Three cicchetti and an ombra at the counter for €8; the luccio in salsa sit-down runs €14.
Antica Trattoria da Bepi in Verona: Sant'Anastasia pocket-trattoria where regulars eat without the Piazza Erbe surcharge; daily lunch sets for €16.
Why locals love it: Sant'Anastasia pocket-trattoria where regulars eat without the Piazza Erbe surcharge; daily lunch sets for €16.
Tip: Book Sunday lunch one week out for the bigoli con l'arna; weekdays you can walk in at lunch time without a booking at all.
Il Cenacolo on Via Teatro Filarmonico is the restored 16th-century cloister courtyard behind Teatro Filarmonico, a quiet alternative to Piazza Erbe.
Why locals love it: Restored 16th-century cloister behind Teatro Filarmonico; a quiet courtyard alternative to Piazza Erbe.
Tip: Book the cloister table 10 days ahead; the pre-opera set menu times in for the 20:30 Arena curtain.
Trattoria al Cristo on Piazzetta Pescheria behind Piazza delle Erbe is the locals-only osteria pouring Soave and plating Veronese pearà bollito on Sundays.
Why locals love it: Behind Piazza delle Erbe on the old Pescheria fish-market square; the location is two minutes from the tourist crush but the room is locals only.
Tip: Book 24 hours ahead for the pearà bollito on Sundays October to March; midweek lunch is walk-in friendly with no booking needed.
San Basilio alla Pergola on Via Pisano in Borgo Venezia is the vine-shaded courtyard trattoria plating Veronese classics on a pergola May-September.
Why locals love it: Vine-shaded courtyard in Borgo Venezia outside the historic walls; classic Veronese plates the way you'd eat at a friend's grandmother's house.
Tip: Order the pearà bollito on Sunday (October to March) and the bigoli con l'arna any day; book the pergola for May-September.
Enoteca Can Grande is lived-in 400-label wine bar two blocks from piazza bra; the kind of small enoteca where the room asks if you want a soave flight.
Why locals love it: Lived-in 400-label wine bar two blocks from Piazza Bra; the kind of small enoteca where the room asks if you want a Soave flight.
Tip: Book 48 hours out for weekend dinner; the room is tiny so the Soave Classico flight is the easy entry.
Wine Not? in Verona: Tight 80-label natural-wine list on a side-alley off the main pedestrian; 18 seats and a daily-rotating cicchetti list.
Why locals love it: Tight 80-label natural-wine list on a side-alley off the main pedestrian; 18 seats and a daily-rotating cicchetti list.
Tip: Ask for the off-list flight of three pours (€18); 19:30 books fill from 19:00.