Lagoon fish, fritolin tradition€€santa-croce
Osteria Vecio Fritolin in Venice's Santa Croce since the 19th century is the modern continuation of the historic fritolin (fried-fish kiosk), now with a sit-down room.
Signature: Cartoccio di fritto misto, Sarde in saor, Spaghetti alle vongole
Order: Cartoccio di pesce fritto from the takeaway window, then the bigoli in salsa inside.
Tip: Closed Mon-Tue. Lunch set at EUR 35 includes wine. Walk-in for the cartoccio window; book the dining room.
Modern Venetian, canal-side€€san-polo
Osteria Bancogiro on Campo San Giacometto in San Polo at the foot of Rialto is the Grand Canal terrace bistro with a downstairs bacaro and a dining room upstairs.
Signature: Tagliata di tonno, Sarde in saor, Crab and ricotta ravioli
Order: Sarde in saor at the bacaro counter, then ravioli with crab and ricotta upstairs on the canal.
Tip: Lower-floor cicchetti are walk-in. Book the upstairs dining room with Grand Canal table a week ahead. Closed Mondays.
Burano lagoon-fish trattoria€€€lagoon-islands
Trattoria al Gatto Nero on Burano is the 1965 Bovo family room now run by Massimiliano Bovo, the canonical lagoon-fish lunch on the colourful fishing island.
Signature: Risotto di go, Bigoli with cuttlefish, Mixed grilled fish
Order: Risotto di go, bigoli al nero di seppia, the mixed grilled fish.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead. Ferry 12 from Fondamente Nove takes 45 minutes. Closed Mondays.
Small plates, Slow Food Presidia€€€castello
CoVino on Calle del Pestrin in Venice's Castello is the 12-seat modern bistro with a Slow Food Presidia carte and a daily-changing five-course tasting menu.
Signature: Five-course Presidia tasting, Lagoon-fish small plates, Natural-wine pairing
Order: The five-course tasting menu, the natural-wine pairing.
Tip: 12 seats total. Email a week ahead for booking. Closed Wed-Thu in some weeks; confirm with the email response.
Bacaro and trattoria€€san-polo
Cantina Do Spade in San Polo near Rialto is one of the oldest bacari in Venice, with a stand-up cicchetti counter and a small sit-down room for the bigger plates.
Signature: Fried moeche in season, Sarde in saor, Polpette al sugo
Order: Sarde in saor at the counter, then a primo of bigoli al ragu di pesce in the dining room.
Tip: Combines bacaro counter and table service. Book the dining room for groups of three plus; walk-in works for the bar.
Traditional Venetian trattoria€€€cannaregio
Vini da Gigio on Calle Stua in Venice's Cannaregio is the Lazzari family's canal-side trattoria since 1981, the canonical traditional Venetian dining room.
Signature: Bigoli in salsa, Fegato alla veneziana, Calf liver with onions
Order: Bigoli in salsa, fegato alla veneziana, the daily fritto misto.
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The 1,200-label cellar leans heavily on Friuli whites. Book a week ahead.