Tortelli d'erbetta
Photo: Clop · Public domain

History

Tortelli d'erbetta are Parma's green-filled counterpart to the meat pastas of Bologna and Piacenza, documented across the province's farm kitchens for centuries. Erbette, a tender local chard, sets them apart from spinach imitations. On the eve of San Giovanni each 23 June the city holds tortellate, communal tortelli feasts under the stars, a custom osterias and courtyards still keep.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Milk

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 1 hr 10 minTotal 1 hr 40 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 300g 00 flour and 3 eggs for the sfoglia
  • 400g erbette or young chard leaves
  • 300g fresh ricotta, drained
  • 100g grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more to serve
  • 1 egg yolk
  • Nutmeg and salt
  • 120g unsalted butter

Method

  1. Wilt the erbette in a covered pan with only their washing water, squeeze bone dry and chop finely.
  2. Mix the greens with ricotta, Parmigiano, yolk, nutmeg and salt into a firm filling.
  3. Roll the pasta thin, pipe walnut-sized mounds in rows, fold and cut into rectangles, sealing the edges with your fingers.
  4. Boil in well-salted water for 3 to 4 minutes until the pasta is tender at the seam.
  5. Melt the butter until it just smells nutty, coat the tortelli gently and serve buried in grated Parmigiano.

Tip from the editors. Drain the ricotta in a sieve for an hour first; a wet filling bursts the seams in the pot.

Where to eat tortelli d'erbetta

Tortelli d'erbetta in Parma

Trattoria Ai Due Platani ★ 4.7

€€ TrattoriaColoreto

Trattoria Ai Due Platani in Coloreto holds Gambero Rosso's Tre Gamberi and a Bib Gourmand, ten minutes from Parma and booked out weeks ahead for tortelli.

OrderTortelli d'erbetta, then cream gelato from the 1964 Carpigiani machine.

TipReserve well in advance, even midweek. Finish with the house cream gelato, churned in a 1964 Carpigiani machine the owners refuse to retire.

I Tri Siochett ★ 4.3

€€ TrattoriaParma Sud

I Tri Siochett prices tortelli d'erbetta around nine euro and seconds under fifteen at Parma's edge, Bib Gourmand cooking at trattoria-of-old prices.

TryTortelli d'erbetta

TipMichelin files it under 'on a budget' and the menu agrees: pasta at 9 euro, mains topping out near 15.

Trattoria Antichi Sapori ★ 4.5

€€ TrattoriaGaione

Trattoria Antichi Sapori's Bib Gourmand menu in Gaione holds tortelli at 12 euro and trippa alla parmigiana at 14, countryside prices ten minutes from Parma.

TryTortelli and trippa

TipWeekday lunch is the quiet, cheap slot; Sunday needs a booking and patience.

Trattoria Le Viole ★ 4.4

€€ TrattoriaBaganzola

Trattoria Le Viole keeps its Michelin-listed tortelli at 12 euro and savarin at 14 north of Parma, white tablecloths without the white-tablecloth bill.

TryTortelli and savarin di riso

TipTwo courses and a glass lands around 30 euro; the savarin di riso at 14 euro is the order.

Trattoria Corrieri ★ 4.2

€€ TrattoriaCentro StoricoUntil 24:00

Trattoria Corrieri keeps full trattoria service running to midnight every night of the week, Parma's safest answer to a 22:30 arrival with an appetite.

TryTortelli and torta fritta to midnight

TipThe kitchen takes orders late without the reheated-tourist-menu trap; go for the torta fritta round even at 23:00.

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