Sicilian€loggia
Ferro di Cavallo on Via Venezia in Palermo is the city's archetypal walk-in trattoria, no reservations, communal tables, a chalkboard menu of cucina povera.
Signature: Pasta alla Norma, Polpette al sugo, Caponata
Order: Pasta alla Norma and the polpette al sugo, the house standards.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive by 12:30 lunch or 19:30 dinner. Cash works fastest; service is fast and direct.
Sicilian€€albergheria
Osteria Ballaro on Via Calascibetta in Palermo runs a candlelit two-room dining space at the edge of the Ballaro market, seafood-leaning Sicilian carte.
Signature: Pasta con le sarde, Tagliata di tonno, Cannoli
Order: Tagliata di tonno and the pasta con le sarde, with a Grillo by the glass.
Tip: Book ahead at weekends. Live music starts 21:30; ask for the back room if you want a quieter table.
Sicilian Seafood€€€borgo-vecchio
Piccolo Napoli on Piazzetta Mulino a Vento in Palermo's Borgo Vecchio quarter is a 70-year family seafood trattoria; the carte changes daily with what.
Signature: Spaghetti con bottarga, Pesce alla griglia, Crudi di mare
Order: Spaghetti con bottarga and whatever crudi arrived that morning.
Tip: Lunch only most days. Book one day ahead; the daily catch board is dictated verbally.
Sicilian Street Food€kalsa
Antica Focacceria San Francesco on Via Alessandro Paternostro opposite the basilica is Palermo's 1834-founded sit-down street food room, serving.
Signature: Pane ca' meusa, Sfincione, Arancina
Order: Pane ca' meusa and a plate of panelle e crocche.
Tip: The terrace facing San Francesco basilica is the seat to ask for. The full menu runs late; counter is fastest at lunch.
Sicilian Seafood€€€liberta
Osteria Mercede on Via Sammartino in Palermo's Politeama quarter is a 25-cover seafood-only room with nautical decor, carte runs raw plates.
Signature: Spaghetti ai ricci di mare, Crudo di gambero rosso, Tonno rosso
Order: Spaghetti ai ricci di mare and the crudo di gambero rosso.
Tip: Book a week ahead at weekends. The 8-course tasting tracks the day's market.
Sicilian Seafood€€kalsaMon 10:00-15:30, Mon 18:00-00:00, Tue 10:00-15:30, Tue 18:00-00:30, Wed 10:00-15:30, Wed 18:00-00:30, Thu 10:00-15:30, Thu 18:00-00:30, Fri 10:00-15:30, Fri 18:00-00:30, Sat 10:00-15:30, Sat 18:00-00:30, Sun 10:00-15:30, Sun 18:00-00:30
Trattoria Da Salvo on Via Torremuzza in Palermo's Kalsa quarter runs a back-street seafood-and-pasta carte with daily-changing antipasti from the Vucciria.
Signature: Pasta con le sarde, Polpo bollito, Caponata
Order: Pasta con le sarde and the polpo bollito, the day's chalkboard antipasto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The piazza-side terrace fills first; book a day ahead at weekends.