Osteria Ballaro on Via Calascibetta in Palermo runs a candlelit two-room dining space at the edge of the Ballaro market, seafood-leaning Sicilian carte with live music most evenings.
Signature dishes: Pasta con le sarde, Tagliata di tonno, Cannoli
Must order: Tagliata di tonno and the pasta con le sarde, with a Grillo by the glass.
Tip: Book ahead at weekends. Live music starts 21:30; ask for the back room if you want a quieter table.
Address: Via Calascibetta 25, 90133 Palermo
Moltivolti in Palermo's Ballaro quarter is the city's coworking and solidarity restaurant since 2014, employing refugees from 15 communities, with a Sicilian-meets-North-African and West-African carte.
Signature: Anelletti al forno, Senegalese mafe, Tunisian brik
Order: Anelletti al forno or the Senegalese mafe, served alongside a Grillo by the glass.
Tip: Book ahead. The Ballaro courtyard fills first in spring and summer; lunch is the value entry point.
Piccolo Napoli on Piazzetta Mulino a Vento in Palermo's Borgo Vecchio quarter is a 70-year family seafood trattoria; the carte changes daily with what arrived from the market.
Signature: Spaghetti con bottarga, Pesce alla griglia, Crudi di mare
Order: Spaghetti con bottarga and whatever crudi arrived that morning.
Tip: Lunch only most days. Book one day ahead; the daily catch board is dictated verbally.
Antica Focacceria San Francesco on Via Alessandro Paternostro opposite the basilica is Palermo's 1834-founded sit-down street food room, serving the canonical pane ca' meusa and panelle.
Signature: Pane ca' meusa, Sfincione, Arancina
Order: Pane ca' meusa and a plate of panelle e crocche.
Tip: The terrace facing San Francesco basilica is the seat to ask for. The full menu runs late; counter is fastest at lunch.
Osteria Mercede on Via Sammartino in Palermo's Politeama quarter is a 25-cover seafood-only room with nautical decor; carte runs raw plates, pasta with sea urchin and grilled red tuna.
Signature: Spaghetti ai ricci di mare, Crudo di gambero rosso, Tonno rosso
Order: Spaghetti ai ricci di mare and the crudo di gambero rosso.
Tip: Book a week ahead at weekends. The 8-course tasting tracks the day's market.
Trattoria Da Salvo on Via Torremuzza in Palermo's Kalsa quarter runs a back-street seafood-and-pasta carte with daily-changing antipasti from the Vucciria stalls.
Signature: Pasta con le sarde, Polpo bollito, Caponata
Order: Pasta con le sarde and the polpo bollito, the day's chalkboard antipasto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The piazza-side terrace fills first; book a day ahead at weekends.
Moltivolti in Palermo's Ballaro quarter is the city's coworking and solidarity restaurant since 2014, employing refugees from 15 communities, with a Sicilian-meets-North-African and West-African carte.
Signature: Anelletti al forno, Senegalese mafe, Tunisian brik
Order: Anelletti al forno or the Senegalese mafe, served alongside a Grillo by the glass.
Tip: Book ahead. The Ballaro courtyard fills first in spring and summer; lunch is the value entry point.
Le Angeliche in Palermo's Capo market is a four-women-owned bistro with a hidden garden courtyard, serving market-sourced Sicilian plates from breakfast through dinner.
Signature: Pasta alla Norma, Sarde a beccafico, Cassata
Order: Pasta alla Norma and the sarde a beccafico, with a cassata to finish.
Tip: Book the secret courtyard table by phone. Closed Sunday evening and Monday.
