Neapolitan trattoria€€centro-storico
La Fermata in Naples' Vomero area runs a daily-changing pasta carte, ragu napoletano on Sundays and frittura di paranza from the morning fish market, the Vomero family lunch.
Order: Ragu napoletano on Sunday, frittura di paranza, paccheri allo scoglio.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. Book a fortnight ahead for Sunday lunch; the ragu sells out by 14:00.
Neapolitan trattoria€€toledo
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese cooked over six hours.
Order: Genovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
Tip: Closed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
Neapolitan trattoria, seafood€€chiaia
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring the historic carte.
Order: Tubettoni do treddeta (house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:30 to 23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Neapolitan pizza, fine pizza€€sanita
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining counter, with tasting menus of six small pizzas and a wine pairing in the historic 1951 room.
Order: The five-pizza tasting menu and the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
Tip: Book on the website three weeks ahead. Tasting runs 45 euros; the historic counter still serves the classic pizzas.
Neapolitan trattoria, working-class€quartieri-spagnoli
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch. Sunday queue starts at 11:30 around the block.
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.
Tip: No bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.
Neapolitan ragu specialist€€centro-storico
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking ritual, daily noon to 24:00.
Order: Paccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Three Tandem rooms share the carte.