Modern Italian€€€isola
Innocenti Evasioni in Milan's Sempione district is Tommaso Arrigoni and Eros Picco's romantic garden-set dining room, opened 1998. The seasonal tasting menu and the
Signature: Tortelli of caciotta, Pigeon breast, Tasting menu
Order: The tortelli of caciotta cheese, the pigeon breast and the seasonal tasting set.
Tip: Bookings open two weeks ahead. The garden tables in summer are the destination; book at least a fortnight in advance.
Modern Indian€€€porta-venezia
Cittamani in Milan is Ritu Dalmia's modern Indian dining room near Brera, opened 2018. The Goan fish curry and the layered tasting set still define Milan's high-end
Signature: Goan fish curry, Butter chicken, Naan stuffed with paneer
Order: The Goan fish curry, the butter chicken and the stuffed paneer naan.
Tip: Bookings open two weeks ahead. The Sunday lunch tasting set with chai pairing is the editor's pick for first visits.
Japanese, sushi€€€€centro-storico
Wicky's in Milan's Centro Storico is chef Wicky Priyan's 12-seat omakase counter, opened 2009, the Sri Lankan-trained sushi master who put Italian fish on the Japane
Signature: Omakase sushi, Yellowtail crudo, Tempura
Order: The full omakase set at the counter; do not order off the carte.
Tip: Bookings open 30 days ahead and sell out within hours. Lunch omakase at 12:30 is cheaper than dinner; vegetarian option available with notice.
Modern Italian, fine dining€€€€navigli
Contraste in Milan's Naviglio Pavese district is Matias Perdomo's Uruguayan-Italian modern kitchen, holding one Michelin star since 2017. The seafood-led tasting men
Signature: Sea urchin and parmesan, Risotto with razor clams, Tasting menu
Order: The carte blanche tasting set at 130 euros; the sea urchin with parmesan is the signature.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's counter at the open kitchen is the spot to ask for; vegetarian menu available.
Modern Italian, fine dining€€€€navigli
Sadler in Milan's Naviglio Pavese is Claudio Sadler's modern Italian dining room since 1995, a one-Michelin-star kitchen that codified the city's tasting-menu tradit
Signature: Risotto with saffron and gold leaf, Beef tartare, Tasting menu
Order: The Sadler tasting set, the saffron risotto with gold leaf and the beef tartare.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's pass at the open kitchen is the seat to ask for; book the 19:30 sitting for a slower service.
Pugliese, southern Italian€€€porta-venezia
Don Giovanni in Milan's Porta Venezia is the Pugliese kitchen of the Quarta family, opened 1986 and a Milanese institution for southern Italian cooking.
Signature: Orecchiette con cime di rapa, Burrata pugliese, Tagliata di tonno
Order: The orecchiette con cime di rapa, the burrata pugliese and the tagliata di tonno.
Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The Pugliese wine list runs deep on Primitivo and Negroamaro producers.