Where to eat Crostini toscani in Florence: 6 editor picks
Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Photo: 007007wiki at English Wikipedia · Public domain
Slices of Tuscan country bread topped with a rough paste of chicken livers cooked with onion, capers, anchovies and vin santo. The canonical Tuscan antipasto.
Crostini toscani (also called crostini neri or crostini di fegatini) are the canonical opening course of a Tuscan meal, served before pasta. The chicken-liver paste traces to medieval peasant cooking where every part of the chicken was used; the Florentine version with capers and anchovies appeared in 18th-century cookery books. Forno and trattoria bakers still toast the bread on a wood-fired grill before topping. Trattoria Sostanza (1869) and Trattoria Mario serve crostini toscani as their fixed antipasto; modernist versions at Locale Firenze add port reduction.
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Kitchen leans florentine trattoria.
OrderRibollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.
TipQueue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long.
OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) cooked on the wood grill, and the tartufo pasta in season.
TipCash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening.
OrderThe Friday-night bistecca tasting if you can book; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
OrderFiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
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