German€€VillanovaUntil 02:00
Brinkhoff's grills late on Via del Pozzetto in Cagliari, a German beer hall of pretzels, steaks and grappa whose kitchen runs on until 02:00.
Order: A grilled steak with a stein of German beer.
Tip: The kitchen stays on until 02:00, which covers the gap after concerts and late films; there is an outdoor space for the warm months.
Brewery€€
Il Birrificio di Cagliari brews on Via Newton and pours its own beer beside grilled meat, the city's own brewpub rather than another bottle bar.
Order: The house lager alongside the grilled beef.
Tip: It took a Barcelona Beer Challenge gold for its Tuvixeddu; it sits out by the ring road, so it is a taxi rather than a walk from the Marina.
Cocktail bar€€CastelloSun-Thu 08:00-00:30; Fri-Sat 08:00-02:00
Libarium Nostrum drinks on the medieval ramparts of Castello in Cagliari, a terrace over the rooftops serving cocktails, antipasti and thin pizza.
Order: The Alligatore, calvados and Drambuie.
Tip: Danilo Argiolas opened it in 1993 and the terrace still fills at sunset; get there before 19:00 for a rampart table.
Italian€€VillanovaMon-Sun 13:00-15:00; Mon-Sat 20:00-23:00
La Locanda dei Buoni e Cattivi in Cagliari is a villa restaurant and guest house that trains young staff, cooking seasonal organic Sardinian plates.
Order: Sunday's Sa Picchettada buffet lunch.
Tip: Weekday lunch runs a fixed-price menu alongside the carte; the garden and terrace are the reason to book ahead in spring.
Seafood€€MarinaTue-Sat 12:30-15:00, 20:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-15:00
Trattoria Lillicu has fed the Marina from Via Sardegna for generations, marble tables, no printed menu, and whatever the Cagliari boats landed that morning.
Order: Spaghetti with arselle clams and bottarga.
Tip: Do not ask for a menu, the waiter recites the catch; arrive by 13:00 or after 14:00 to miss the queue. Monday the trattoria stays shut.
Italian€€StampaceDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:30-23:00
Sa Domu Sarda on Via Sassari is the Cagliari address for cucina regionale di terra, the inland Sardinian side of the island rather than the harbour.
Order: Whatever the inland menu is running that day.
Tip: Book for dinner, the two plain rooms fill with locals; the kitchen runs straight through from 12:30 and again from 19:30, seven days a week.