Bolognese trattoria€€centro-storico
Da Cesari in Bologna's Centro Storico is the four-generation Carati family trattoria, operating since 1955, a steady room for the canonical Bolognese carte.
Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Cotoletta alla bolognese, Tortellini in brodo
Order: Tagliatelle al ragu, cotoletta alla bolognese, friggione on the side.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead by phone; the family carte does not change and the wine cellar is run by Massimiliano Carati personally.
Modern Italian, natural wine€€€santo-stefano
Ahime in Bologna near Via San Vitale is the Lorenzo Vecchia and Filippo Pennestri room, a 30-seat natural-wine bistro rooted in fermentation and Emilian produce.
Signature: Tortelli di erbette, Trippa with parmesan crust, Daily fermented vegetables
Order: The tortelli di erbette, the fermentation tasting plate, the trippa with parmesan crust.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead online; the natural-wine cellar is the city's most-cited and the carte rewrites weekly.
Bolognese trattoria, Sunday lunch€€saragozza
Trattoria Meloncello in Bologna sits at the foot of the 666-arch portico up to San Luca, a family room running the classic Bolognese Sunday-lunch carte.
Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Cotoletta alla bolognese, Tortelloni di zucca
Order: Tortelloni di zucca, tagliatelle al ragu, the Sunday-only bollito misto.
Tip: Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch; the portico walk from Porta Saragozza takes 25 minutes and is the traditional pre-lunch passeggiata.
Bolognese, fine bistro€€€centro-storico
Al Pappagallo in Bologna on Piazza della Mercanzia is the 1919-founded fine-bistro running the Bolognese banking-class carte; Fellini and Pavarotti both ate here.
Signature: Tortellini in brodo, Tagliatelle al ragu, Cotoletta alla bolognese
Order: Tortellini in brodo, lasagne verdi, the cotoletta alla bolognese with prosciutto.
Tip: Book a week ahead; the ground-floor dining room is the one to ask for, with the original 1919 fittings.
Modern Italian, Emilian€€€mazzini
Scaccomatto in Bologna's Mazzini is the Mario Ferrara fine-bistro running a sea-and-land carte that crosses Adriatic seafood with the Emilian land tradition.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto with raw seafood, Sea-bass with Lambrusco reduction
Order: The seasonal tasting carte, the carbonara di mare, the slow-cooked guancia.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead online; the tasting carte is the value option at 75 euros and the wine pairings are a strength.
Sfoglia pasta, take-away and dine-in€€centro-storico
Sfoglia Rina in Bologna's Centro Storico is the 1963-founded sfoglina counter run by the Faccioli family, with hand-rolled pasta sold by weight and a dine-in carte.
Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Tortelloni di ricotta, Lasagne verdi
Order: Tagliatelle al ragu, tortelloni burro e salvia, the Wednesday-only lasagne verdi.
Tip: The dine-in room takes walk-ins until 14:00; for take-away pasta, the queue thins after 11:30.