Kyani and Co is a cafe in Marine Lines, Mumbai.
Kyani and Co opened in 1904, making it Mumbai's oldest Irani cafe. Bun maska, brun maska, mawa cake and the sweet milky chai have not changed in a century.
Must order: Bun maska and Irani chai; share a mawa cake.
Tip: Mornings until 11:00 are the best time; the cafe fills with regulars by lunch.
Address: 657 Jer Mahal Estate, Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Road, Marine Lines, Mumbai 400002
Mr Rustom K Yazdabadi opened Sassanian on 1st Marine Street in 1913. The bakery oven has stayed lit ever since; bun maska, brun, fried egg pav, mawa cake.
Signature drink: Irani chai
Order: Bun maska with Irani chai, a fried egg pav on the side.
Tip: Breakfast prices are still 1980s low; cash works easiest. Cash and card both accepted.
Mr Rustom K Yazdabadi opened Sassanian on 1st Marine Street in 1913. The bakery oven has stayed lit ever since; bun maska, brun, fried egg pav, mawa cake.
Signature drink: Irani chai
Order: Bun maska with Irani chai, a fried egg pav on the side.
Tip: Breakfast prices are still 1980s low; cash works easiest. Cash and card both accepted.
Cafe Mondegar opened in 1932 on Colaba Causeway. The Mario Miranda murals on opposite walls (1990s) are the room's signature; jukebox still plays.
Signature drink: Cold beer at the bar
Order: A cold beer, a chicken cafreal and the chocolate mousse.
Tip: The Wurlitzer jukebox accepts coins; bring change. Cash and card both accepted.
Cafe Madras at Kings Circle has poured South Indian filter coffee since 1940. The idli is steamed in cotton batter; the masala dosa is the benchmark.
Signature drink: Filter coffee
Order: Filter coffee and a Mysore masala dosa.
Tip: Closed Monday; weekend mornings queue from 07:00. Cash and card both accepted.
Subko's Bandra flagship roasts and bakes in-house off Chapel Road. The Bibasaha Bana single-origin espresso program is Subko's calling card; the croissants.
Signature drink: Bibasaha Bana espresso
Order: A Bibasaha Bana espresso and a chocolate-cardamom croissant.
Tip: The bean retail counter holds the freshest single-origins; ask the barista for what just landed.
Blue Tokai's One World Center cafe pours and sells the Mumbai outpost of India's largest specialty roaster. Espresso, pour-over and whole-bean retail.
Signature drink: Single-origin pour-over
Order: A single-origin Vienna or Attikan estate pour-over for the morning cup.
Tip: The bean wall has a daily-roast list; buy 250g of a recent roast for home.
Blue Tokai's Bandra cafe on 32nd Road is a Pali Hill working-day mainstay. Single-origin espresso, cold brew on tap. Editor's TableJourney pick.
Signature drink: Cold brew
Order: Cold brew and a banana bread; bean retail for home.
Tip: The 32nd Road cafe has outdoor seats; arrive before 10:00 to claim one.