The old Irani cafe quarter. Bun maska, brun, mawa cake and strong sweet chai at counters that opened more than a century ago.
Kyani and Co opened in 1904, making it Mumbai's oldest Irani cafe. Bun maska, brun maska, mawa cake and the sweet milky chai have not changed in a century.
Signature drink: Irani chai
Order: Bun maska and Irani chai; share a mawa cake.
Tip: Mornings until 11:00 are the best time; the cafe fills with regulars by lunch.
Mr Rustom K Yazdabadi opened Sassanian on 1st Marine Street in 1913. The bakery oven has stayed lit ever since; bun maska, brun, fried egg pav, mawa cake.
Signature drink: Irani chai
Order: Bun maska with Irani chai, a fried egg pav on the side.
Tip: Breakfast prices are still 1980s low; cash works easiest. Cash and card both accepted.
Rustom K Yazdabadi opened Sassanian on 1st Marine Street in 1913. The bakery oven has stayed lit ever since; bun maska, brun, fried egg pav and mawa cake.
Order: Mawa cake and a brun with butter.
Tip: Mawa cakes sell out by lunch; arrive early. Cash and card both accepted.
Worth the queue: Mawa cake
Mumbai's oldest Irani cafe (1904) is also its oldest Irani bakery. The bakery counter at the front sells bun, brun. Editor's TableJourney pick.
Order: Two bun maskas to go and a mawa cake.
Tip: The counter rounds prices to the rupee; cash easiest. Cash and card both accepted.
Worth the queue: Bun maska
Marine Drive at sundown means chai-walas, bhutta carts and roasted peanut sellers along the promenade. The chai is poured from a thermos into paper cups.
Try: Roasted corn (bhutta), chai, peanuts
Order: A bhutta (roasted corn with lime and chilli) and a cutting chai.
Tip: The Necklace lights up at sundown; carts run until past midnight.
Kyani still prices bun maska at INR 30 and Irani chai at INR 25. Two of each plus a mawa cake comes to INR 100; the breakfast price has barely moved.
Try: Bun maska and Irani chai
Order: Bun maska, Irani chai and a mawa cake.
Tip: Mornings until 11:00 are the best time; pay cash. Cash and card both accepted.