A barley rusk soaked just enough by grated tomato, then buried under crumbled myzithra, oregano, capers and a heavy pour of Cretan olive oil. It is the plate that tells you whether a kitchen respects its ingredients.
Dakos began as shepherd food. Barley rusk, twice-baked so it kept for months, travelled up to the summer pastures with cheese and oil, and softened with whatever tomato or water was to hand. The name comes from the rusk itself, a paximadi cut from a barley loaf. Cretan households ate it as a working lunch long before it appeared on restaurant menus, and it only became a taverna standard in the second half of the twentieth century, once tomatoes were cheap and plentiful across the Messara plain. Purists in Heraklion still argue about whether the rusk should be dipped in water first, and about whether feta is ever an acceptable substitute for fresh myzithra.
Merastri has cooked over a wood oven in Heraklion since 1998, closing lamb in the fire for hours and finishing pork fillet with staka and oven potatoes.
OrderArnaki ofto, milk-fed lamb held in the wood oven
TipDinner only from 18:00, and the courtyard tables go first at weekends. The Cretan list is worth an extra glass.
Parasties runs an open wood fire opposite the Historical Museum in Heraklion, turning out smoked steak, big pork fillets and long-cooked Cretan plates.
OrderSmoked steak straight off the open wood fire
TipSit where you can see the open kitchen. Staff will walk you through a mostly Cretan wine list if you tell them what you ordered.
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