Lamb cooked slowly over or in wood fire until the fat renders and the meat gives way completely. In Heraklion it comes out of a domed wood oven after two and a half to three hours, seasoned with almost nothing.

Ofto means roasted, and the technique is the oldest cooking method on the island: meat set upright around an open fire, salted, and left to cook in its own falling fat. The mountain version, antikristo, stands lamb on stakes facing the flame. Town kitchens in Heraklion adapted it to the wood oven, which does the same job with less smoke and more control. What has not changed is the restraint. Salt, sometimes a little thyme, and time. Merastri holds milk-fed lamb in its oven for two and a half to three hours, which is the standard local benchmark.

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