Greek€€Old TownDaily 13:00-23:30
Apiri Greek Eatery is a good-value Heraklion dinner, grilling octopus and sea bass and charring its wild greens pie over open coals every night.
Signature: Char-grilled greens pie, Grilled octopus, Smoked sea bass
Order: The char-grilled wild greens pie
Tip: Small room, so book for dinner. Lunch is quieter and the same kitchen is running the grill from 13:00.
Cretan meze€Old TownTue-Sun 13:00-23:30; Mon closed
Chalali is the cheap Cretan taverna on Strofadon that keeps central Heraklion honest, with mezedes, grills and raki for well under a tenner.
Signature: Cretan mezedes, Grilled meats, Raki
Order: A mezes spread with a carafe of raki
Tip: Closed Mondays, and prices sit well under the old-town average, so the room stays local rather than filling with cruise traffic.
Seafood€€Venetian Harbour
Ligo Krasi Ligo Thalassa is the Heraklion harbour table for a long seafood lunch, with mezedes, lobster spaghetti and the Venetian fortress in view.
Signature: Lobster spaghetti, Seafood mezedes, Stuffed courgette flowers
Order: Seafood mezedes, then lobster spaghetti to share
Tip: The terrace looks over the harbour to the fortress, which is worth waiting for an outside table in summer.
Mediterranean€€Old TownDaily from 09:00
Pagopoieion is the all-day room on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, an old ice factory pouring coffee from nine and serving through to dinner.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Beef tartare, Cretan wines
Order: Mushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
Tip: The old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.
Greek€Old Town
Krasas is the Ikarou grill house that Heraklion falls back on, running gyros and skewers until three in the morning at prices well under a tenner.
Signature: Gyros, Grilled meats, Chips
Order: A pita gyros with everything, eaten standing
Tip: Open until 03:00, which makes it the default stop after a long evening on Ikarou.
Cretan meze€Old TownMon-Sat 18:00-00:00; Sun closed
Chagiati is the backstreet Heraklion mezedopoleio on Erotokritou, grilling sardines and pouring raki for a room that stays stubbornly local.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Dolmades, Mixed grill
Order: Grilled sardines with a carafe of raki
Tip: Dinner only, and closed Sundays. The room is small enough that a walk-in after 21:00 usually means waiting outside.