Kostarelos in Kolonaki Athens is the cheese-counter destination, three generations of cheesemakers with 14 cheeses, charcuterie and a sit-down counter on Patriarchou Ioakeim.
Tip: The Sunday morning rush ends by noon; ask for the day's graviera flight to taste.
Address: Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32, Athina 106 75, Athens
Varvakios on Athinas in Athens is the city's central food market, built in 1886 with a fish hall, a meat hall and the spice and olive stalls on the surrounding streets.
Tip: Go early; the best fish goes by 09:00. The spice and olive shops on Evripidou run later.
Kallidromiou in Exarchia is the Saturday farmers' market that Athens runs, on the FT World's Best list, a Strefi-Hill-edge street market with seasonal fruit and fish.
Tip: Most stalls are cash only; the spillover from Strefi Hill end has the best honey vendors.
Pantopoleion on Sofokleous in central Athens is the grocery store of the Mediterranean Diet, 3000 Greek products from 225 cottage industries, women's coops and rural farms.
Tip: The morning olive oil tasting at the back is free; ask the counter for the day's pour.
Evripidou Street near Varvakios in Athens is the spice and dried-herbs strip, a row of small shops with mountain tea, oregano, saffron and cured meats from across Greece.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Saffron from Kozani is the souvenir buy; the herb shops sell by the gram.
