Strained Greek yogurt with grated cucumber, garlic, olive oil and dill, the cold side dip on every Athens taverna table and every souvlaki pita in the city.
Tzatziki shares roots with the Turkish cacik and the Indian raita, all built around yogurt and cucumber. The Greek version with garlic and olive oil dominates from the post-war taverna era. Every Athens taverna serves a small bowl of tzatziki with bread before the meal arrives, and every souvlaki pita includes a generous spoonful. The dish requires only strained yogurt, fresh cucumber and good olive oil to work; it ruins fast with bad ingredients.
Klimataria on Theatre Square has poured Athens taverna food since 1927, a Psyrri institution where rebetiko plays live on most evenings from around 22:00.
OrderGigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.
TipLive music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia here since 1970.
OrderBakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
TipPavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book a fortnight ahead.
Bairaktaris on Monastiraki Square is the tourist-targeted Athens institution. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans souvlaki and taverna. At Pl. Monastirakiou 5.
OrderA pork souvlaki pita with extra tzatziki and a glass of the house retsina.
TipThe square seating is the experience; the rooms behind serve a longer menu and live guitar music.
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