Layered aubergine, potato and spiced lamb mince under a thick bechamel, baked to a golden top, the Athens lunch plate at every long-running mageirio in the city.

The modern Greek moussaka was codified by chef Nikolaos Tselementes in the 1920s, who added the French bechamel to an Ottoman-era layered aubergine dish. The result became a fixture of the Athens taverna by the 1950s. Today every mageirio in the city, from Diporto in the central market to Karavitis in Pangrati, runs a daily moussaka from the pan. Best eaten at lunch, when the bechamel is still warm and the layers hold.

3 editor picks for Moussaka in Athens, ranked by editorial score. All Athens signature dishes · Moussaka across every city.