Layered aubergine, potato and spiced lamb mince under a thick bechamel, baked to a golden top, the Athens lunch plate at every long-running mageirio in the city.
The modern Greek moussaka was codified by chef Nikolaos Tselementes in the 1920s, who added the French bechamel to an Ottoman-era layered aubergine dish. The result became a fixture of the Athens taverna by the 1950s. Today every mageirio in the city, from Diporto in the central market to Karavitis in Pangrati, runs a daily moussaka from the pan. Best eaten at lunch, when the bechamel is still warm and the layers hold.
Klimataria on Theatre Square has poured Athens taverna food since 1927, a Psyrri institution where rebetiko plays live on most evenings from around 22:00.
OrderGigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.
TipLive music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.
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