Moussaka
Photo: Fotograf: Dieter Mueller (dino1948) Kamera: de:Nikon 885 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Layered aubergine, potato and spiced lamb mince under a thick bechamel, baked to a golden top, the Athens lunch plate at every long-running mageirio in the city.

The modern Greek moussaka was codified by chef Nikolaos Tselementes in the 1920s, who added the French bechamel to an Ottoman-era layered aubergine dish. The result became a fixture of the Athens taverna by the 1950s. Today every mageirio in the city, from Diporto in the central market to Karavitis in Pangrati, runs a daily moussaka from the pan. Best eaten at lunch, when the bechamel is still warm and the layers hold.

3 editor picks for Moussaka in Athens, ranked by editorial score. All Athens signature dishes · Moussaka across every city.

Taverna tou Oikonomou ★ 4.4

€Athenian MageirioPetralona

Taverna tou Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is the Athens mageirio that has cooked home-style food since 1930, with 15 to 20 daily dishes from the pan.

OrderAsk what came out of the pan today; the daily stew with a glass of the house red.

TipNo microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when pans empty out, often by 22:00.

Karavitis Tavern ★ 4.4

€Athenian TavernaPangrati

Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked the Athens taverna canon since 1926, a rustic room with a courtyard, barrels of house wine and the bekri-meze stew.

OrderThe bekri meze stew with stuffed vine leaves and a carafe of the house red.

TipNo reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 weeknights and before 20:30 on Friday and Saturday.

Klimataria ★ 4.3

€€Greek Taverna With Live MusicPsyrri

Klimataria on Theatre Square has poured Athens taverna food since 1927, a Psyrri institution where rebetiko plays live on most evenings from around 22:00.

OrderGigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.

TipLive music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Moussaka makes more sense with someone from Athens explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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