Modern European€€€€hafencity
Kevin Fehling's three-Michelin-star room in Hamburg's HafenCity seats 20 at one cherry-wood table facing the open kitchen on Shanghaiallee. Tue to Sat.
Signature: Seasonal tasting, Langoustine
Order: The full tasting; pairings worth the upgrade.
Tip: One seating per evening at 19:00. Bookings open three months out on Tock; the cancellation list moves on the week.
Modern French€€€€neustadt
Christoph Rueffer's three-Michelin-star Haerlin at the Fairmont Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg cooks classical Hanseatic and modern French on the Alster.
Signature: Langoustine course, Seasonal tasting
Order: The seven- or nine-course tasting; the langoustine course is the signature.
Tip: Jacket required for men. Ask for an Alster-side window at booking.
Modern German, Radical Regional€€€€hammerbrook
Thomas Imbusch's two-Michelin-star room on Brandshofer Deich in Hamburg cooks carte-blanche around an open stove between 100C and 200C, sourced regionally.
Signature: Carte-blanche tasting, Open-stove cooking
Order: The full tasting; everything is regional.
Tip: Third floor of a warehouse, lift on the right. Sister room Glorie downstairs runs a la carte.
Japanese sushi€€€altona
The Henssler family's Hamburg sushi room on Grosse Elbstrasse runs a 20-metre open kitchen above the Fischmarkt since 2001, called Cuisine Pacifique.
Signature: California sushi rolls, Teriyaki Faroe salmon
Order: The California-style maki and the teriyaki Faroe salmon.
Tip: Walk-up counter seats open at 18:00; arrive before to skip the wait.
German€€€sternschanze
Tim Maelzer and Patrick Ruether's Bullerei in Hamburg's Sternschanze has cooked grilled meats, pasta and modern German in the old slaughterhouse since 2009.
Signature: Steak from the grill, Pasta on Mondays
Order: The dry-aged rib-eye and the seasonal handmade pasta.
Tip: Daily 12:00-23:00. Tables on the courtyard fill first in summer.
German€€neustadt
Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.
Signature: Original Hamburger Labskaus, Pannfisch
Order: The Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.
Tip: Open daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.