Modern European€€€€kreuzberg
Maximilian Strohe's one-star Tulus Lotrek in Berlin Kreuzberg cooks a French-rooted modern-European tasting in a former corner kneipe with 20 covers and one nightly seating.
Signature: Foie gras with rhubarb, Whole-roast pigeon
Order: The seven-course tasting at EUR 165; the foie gras and the pigeon course are the signatures.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Bookings open three months ahead via the website and burn the first day.
French neo-bistro€€€mitte
Bandol sur Mer on Berlin's Torstrasse is the 20-cover French neo-bistro that helped invent Mitte's natural-wine grammar; one chalkboard tasting changes weekly.
Signature: Sea-bream crudo, Veal sweetbreads
Order: The four-course tasting; the sea-bream crudo and whichever offal main is on are the signatures.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Walk-ins for the counter seats from 19:00; tables need a booking two weeks ahead.
Chinese dim sum€€kreuzberg
Long March Canteen in Berlin Kreuzberg is the city's dim-sum reference, with hand-folded dumplings from an open kitchen and a long bar pouring tsingtao and natural wine.
Signature: Dim sum platter, Mapo tofu
Order: The dim sum platter for two, mapo tofu, and the steamed-fish special of the night.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive before 19:00 on weekdays or expect a 45-minute wait at the bar.
Slow-cooked Mediterranean€€€mitte
Katz Orange in Berlin Mitte's former 19th-century brewery cooks the slow-roast Candy on Bone pork shoulder that put the room on the map; the garden runs the summer.
Signature: Candy on Bone pork shoulder, Beetroot tartare
Order: The Candy on Bone pork shoulder, slow-roasted 12 hours; the beetroot tartare is the vegetarian counterpart.
Tip: The garden in summer is the room's best seating. Bookings open three weeks ahead via the website.
Hyper-local tasting€€€€wedding
Dylan Watson-Brawn's Ernst in Berlin Wedding holds two Michelin stars on a 12-cover counter with one nightly seating; ingredients are sourced from named Brandenburg growers.
Signature: Hand-rolled bread, Brandenburg vegetables
Order: The full tasting; chef-led counter only, no a la carte. The hand-rolled bread course opens the meal.
Tip: Tickets-only model via Tock, sold in batches three months ahead. The EUR 350 tasting is the only option.
Austrian wine bar€€€mitte
Cordobar in Berlin Mitte is the Austrian wine bar Willi Schloegl runs near Hackescher Markt, with 700 bottles, small plates of tartare and offal, and a counter that takes walk-ins.
Signature: Beef tartare with rye, Pork shoulder with kraut
Order: The beef tartare with rye, the pork shoulder, and whatever orange-wine pour is on the by-the-glass list.
Tip: The counter takes walk-ups from 18:30; tables book online a week ahead. Closed Sunday and Monday.