Rennes weekend: the Saturday market and the galette
★ 4.7
2 days
First-time visitor, two days
The two-day version of Rennes built around the one fixed point in the city's week: the Marché des Lices on Saturday morning, a galette-saucisse eaten standing up, and then a run through the crêperies, the kouign-amann counters and the Sainte-Anne bars.
Day 1Saturday: the Marché des Lices and the old town
Morning
Be at the Marché des Lices by 09:00, while the fish and produce halls are still full. Walk the outer ring of stalls first, then take a galette-saucisse from the market stands, eaten in the hand with no plate. The market winds down from 13:00, and Crêperie au Marché des Lices on the same square opens at noon if you would rather have the Robiquette sitting down.
Afternoon
Walk east into the centre for a kouign-amann at Boulangerie Hoche on Rue Hoche, then carry it west to Bourbon d'Arsel on Rue de la Monnaie for a filter coffee. Spend the rest of the afternoon on the half-timbered streets between Place Sainte-Anne and Place du Champ-Jacquet.
Evening
Dinner at Crêperie La Saint-Georges on Rue du Chapitre: a complète first, then a crêpe au caramel au beurre salé, cider throughout. Finish at Le Melody Nelson on Rue Saint-Thomas, which pours until 03:00 on a Saturday.
Day 2Sunday: Halles Centrales, the Thabor and a long lunch
Morning
The Halles Centrales trade on Sunday from 09:00 to 13:00, which makes them the only serious food shopping left in the city that day. Take breakfast at Brasserie de la Paix on Place de la République from 07:00 first, then walk the Criée hall when it opens.
Afternoon
Lunch at La Crêperie du Thabor on Rue Saint-Melaine, then cross into the Parc du Thabor itself for the botanical garden and the rose beds. If the queue is long, La Rozell on Rue de Penhoët serves through the afternoon without a break.
Evening
Sunday nights are quiet in Rennes. Le P'tit Vélo on Place Saint-Michel is open until 22:30 and sits at the foot of the rue de la Soif, which is as much nightlife as the city offers before Monday.
A single Friday in Rennes that treats the buckwheat galette as the whole point: bakery breakfast, a lunchtime galette at a Thabor crêperie, an afternoon pastry counter, and a second galette at dinner with cider and a wine bar afterwards.
Day 1Friday: galettes from the Halles to the Thabor
Morning
Start at Le Fournil des Halles on Rue de Nemours for a far breton and a coffee standing at the counter, then walk ten minutes to 7 Grammes on Rue Saint-Melaine for a proper espresso before the lunch rush.
Afternoon
Lunch at Crêperie Ouzh Taol on Rue Saint-Melaine, which serves a strict 12:00 to 14:00 service: a complète, then something sweet. Afterwards, cross the centre to Pâtisserie Le Daniel on Rue Jules Simon and buy pastries for later.
Evening
Dinner at Bretone on Rue Joseph Sauveur near the Colombier, where the galettes run to andouille and salted-butter caramel. Finish at Bouchon on Rue de Montfort, which pours natural wine until 01:00.
Rennes has quietly built one of the strongest small-city bistro scenes in western France, and this midweek plan works through it: lunch menus in the €22 to €30 range, an evening tasting room, and the natural-wine counters that feed both.
Day 1Wednesday: a Saint-Hélier lunch and a tasting dinner
Morning
Coffee and a pastry at Café 1802 on Rue d'Antrain, at the top of the old town where the Thabor quarter starts. It roasts its own and opens at 08:00.
Afternoon
Lunch at Fezi on Rue Saint-Hélier, a short weekday menu built on Breton produce, with a single seating from 12:00 to 13:30. Walk back along the Vilaine into the centre and take an afternoon coffee at Café Albertine on Rue du Comte de Lanjuinais, which pours until 18:30.
Evening
Dinner at Khimaira on Place du Bas des Lices, one of the city's more inventive kitchens, with a single evening sitting from 20:00. Afterwards, Bombance on Rue de la Chalotais keeps pouring until midnight.
Day 2Thursday: market bistros and the natural-wine rooms
Morning
Breakfast at Café Wunder on Boulevard de Chézy, by Place Sainte-Anne, then walk the Portes Mordelaises and the ramparts before the lunch service starts.
Afternoon
Lunch at La Petite Ourse on Boulevard de la Liberté, a weekday-only market bistro cooking whatever came in that morning. Take the afternoon in the Musée des Beaux-Arts on Quai Émile Zola, five minutes away.
Evening
Dinner at Racines in the Colombier, the city's most consistent modern kitchen, then a nightcap at Jozy on Rue Vasselot, where the Coucou de Rennes goes on the grill and the cellar runs to a hundred bottles.
Hello, I'm Patricia Costa, your local live guide based in Rennes. Join me on an organized one day trip to Mont Saint-Michel, where history, culture, and local discoveries
Discover the Emerald Coast by bike and let yourself be guided between Saint-Malo and Cancale along the coast. On arrival in Cancale taste the famous oysters of the reg...
Making a trip of these plans? Where to stay in Rennes, what to book ahead, and a car for the day trips. Prices and availability open on each partner's site.
Zen HotelsPlaces to stay in Rennes · from USD 70 a nightSee stays
HoliduPlaces to stay in Rennes · from USD 65 a nightSee stays