Freddy's in Paris's 6e is Yves Camdeborde's stand-up wine bar across from Le Comptoir du Relais. Twenty stools, an electric natural list, tapas served all evening.
Food program: Tapas-size small plates
Tip: No reservations. Arrive at 18:50 for stools or after 21:30 once the early crowd has left.
Address: 54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
Le Rubis in Paris is the 1er Saint-Honoré standing-room wine bar that has not closed since 1932. The day's Beaujolais cru is chalked on the wall.
Signature pour: Beaujolais cru, by the half-litre
Wine focus: Old-school Beaujolais and Loire
Food: Charcuterie and saucisson
Tip: Cash preferred. Order a glass and a saucisson plate at the bar; tables fill from 12:30.
Frenchie Bar à Vins in Paris is Gregory Marchand's wine-bar annex across from the main bistro on Rue du Nil. Walk-up only, small plates from the Frenchie kitchen.
Signature pour: The cellar's rotating glass list of six
Wine focus: Natural wines, French and international
Food: Small plates from the Frenchie kitchen
Tip: Arrive at 18:30 or after 21:30; the room is small, the small plates are bigger than they sound.
Le Baron Rouge in Paris's 12e is the Marché d'Aligre wine bar that opens on Saturday morning for oyster shucking on the pavement and the day's wine from barrels.
Signature pour: Chenin by the carafe
Wine focus: Loire and Beaujolais
Food: Oysters Saturday, charcuterie daily
Tip: Saturday 10:00-13:00 is the move: oysters on the street, cru Beaujolais from the barrel.
Vivant in Paris's 10e is the wine-bar-bistro Pierre Jancou opened in a 1900s pet shop. The natural list is one of the deepest in town, the carte changes weekly.
Signature pour: Domaine Léon Barral, Faugères
Wine focus: Natural wines
Food: Bistro carte
Tip: Closed weekends. The lunch set at €24 includes a glass; ask which Faugères is pouring that week.
Le Verre Volé in Paris's 10e is the canal-side natural-wine cave and bistro that anchored the 10e's natural-wine map two decades before the 11e copied it.
Signature pour: Domaine Foillard Morgon
Wine focus: Natural wines
Food: Bistro carte, charcuterie
Tip: The cave is for buying bottles; the bistro across the corridor opens them for €8 corkage.
Bertrand Grébaut's Septime La Cave in Paris is the natural-wine annex of Septime, four blocks away. A 24-seat room, an electric list, walk-in only weeknights.
Signature pour: Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis, by the glass
Wine focus: Natural French wines, growers' Champagne
Food: Snacks and small plates
Tip: Arrive at 17:00 for a counter seat or after 21:00 once the dinner crowd thins out at Septime.
