Le Rubis in Paris is the 1er Saint-Honoré standing-room wine bar that has not closed since 1932. The day's Beaujolais cru is chalked on the wall.
Food program: Charcuterie and saucisson
Tip: Cash preferred. Order a glass and a saucisson plate at the bar; tables fill from 12:30.
Address: 10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris
Frenchie Bar à Vins in Paris is Gregory Marchand's wine-bar annex across from the main bistro on Rue du Nil. Walk-up only, small plates from the Frenchie kitchen.
Signature pour: The cellar's rotating glass list of six
Wine focus: Natural wines, French and international
Food: Small plates from the Frenchie kitchen
Tip: Arrive at 18:30 or after 21:30; the room is small, the small plates are bigger than they sound.
Le Baron Rouge in Paris's 12e is the Marché d'Aligre wine bar that opens on Saturday morning for oyster shucking on the pavement and the day's wine from barrels.
Signature pour: Chenin by the carafe
Wine focus: Loire and Beaujolais
Food: Oysters Saturday, charcuterie daily
Tip: Saturday 10:00-13:00 is the move: oysters on the street, cru Beaujolais from the barrel.
Vivant in Paris's 10e is the wine-bar-bistro Pierre Jancou opened in a 1900s pet shop. The natural list is one of the deepest in town, the carte changes weekly.
Signature pour: Domaine Léon Barral, Faugères
Wine focus: Natural wines
Food: Bistro carte
Tip: Closed weekends. The lunch set at €24 includes a glass; ask which Faugères is pouring that week.
Le Verre Volé in Paris's 10e is the canal-side natural-wine cave and bistro that anchored the 10e's natural-wine map two decades before the 11e copied it.
Signature pour: Domaine Foillard Morgon
Wine focus: Natural wines
Food: Bistro carte, charcuterie
Tip: The cave is for buying bottles; the bistro across the corridor opens them for €8 corkage.
Bertrand Grébaut's Septime La Cave in Paris is the natural-wine annex of Septime, four blocks away. A 24-seat room, an electric list, walk-in only weeknights.
Signature pour: Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis, by the glass
Wine focus: Natural French wines, growers' Champagne
Food: Snacks and small plates
Tip: Arrive at 17:00 for a counter seat or after 21:00 once the dinner crowd thins out at Septime.
Le Garde Robe in Paris's 1er is the city's senior natural-wine bar, opened by Vincent Sevray in 2005. The lunch and dinner plates are charcuterie and cheese only.
Signature pour: Domaine Mosse Chenin Blanc
Wine focus: Natural wines and charcuterie
Food: Charcuterie, cheese, small plates
Tip: Closed Sunday. The lunch menu pairs the day's plate with two glasses of wine for €25.
