Le Baron Rouge in Paris's 12e is the Marché d'Aligre wine bar that opens on Saturday morning for oyster shucking on the pavement and the day's wine from barrels.
Food program: Oysters Saturday, charcuterie daily
Tip: Saturday 10:00-13:00 is the move: oysters on the street, cru Beaujolais from the barrel.
Address: 1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012 Paris
Vivant in Paris's 10e is the wine-bar-bistro Pierre Jancou opened in a 1900s pet shop. The natural list is one of the deepest in town, the carte changes weekly.
Signature pour: Domaine Léon Barral, Faugères
Wine focus: Natural wines
Food: Bistro carte
Tip: Closed weekends. The lunch set at €24 includes a glass; ask which Faugères is pouring that week.
Le Verre Volé in Paris's 10e is the canal-side natural-wine cave and bistro that anchored the 10e's natural-wine map two decades before the 11e copied it.
Signature pour: Domaine Foillard Morgon
Wine focus: Natural wines
Food: Bistro carte, charcuterie
Tip: The cave is for buying bottles; the bistro across the corridor opens them for €8 corkage.
Bertrand Grébaut's Septime La Cave in Paris is the natural-wine annex of Septime, four blocks away. A 24-seat room, an electric list, walk-in only weeknights.
Signature pour: Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis, by the glass
Wine focus: Natural French wines, growers' Champagne
Food: Snacks and small plates
Tip: Arrive at 17:00 for a counter seat or after 21:00 once the dinner crowd thins out at Septime.
Le Garde Robe in Paris's 1er is the city's senior natural-wine bar, opened by Vincent Sevray in 2005. The lunch and dinner plates are charcuterie and cheese only.
Signature pour: Domaine Mosse Chenin Blanc
Wine focus: Natural wines and charcuterie
Food: Charcuterie, cheese, small plates
Tip: Closed Sunday. The lunch menu pairs the day's plate with two glasses of wine for €25.
Camille Fourmont's La Buvette in Paris is the 16-seat 11e wine bar that put white beans with citrus oil on every editorial radar. Wednesday to Sunday, evenings only.
Signature pour: Domaine Tessier Cheverny
Wine focus: Natural French wines
Food: Snacks: white beans, fish rillettes
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Arrive at 18:00 or after 21:30 to find a counter stool.
Le Mary Celeste in Paris's 3e is the wine-bar-cocktail-bar hybrid that anchors the upper Marais natural-wine map. Daily 18:00 open, oysters and snacks from the bar.
Signature pour: Domaine de la Tournelle Trousseau
Wine focus: Natural and biodynamic, France and Italy
Food: Oysters and small plates
Tip: The Sunday all-day oyster happy hour (16:00-18:00) is the steal: a dozen for €18 with a glass.
