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French Bistro11e
Bertrand Grébaut's Septime in Paris remains the room every neo-bistro in the city compares itself to. Reservations open 21 days ahead and burn within an hour.
OrderThe cured mackerel starter and whatever fish is on the second course.
TipEasier on a Tuesday lunch than Friday dinner. Same kitchen, same wine, half the wait list.
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French Bistro2e
Gregory Marchand's Frenchie sits on Paris's Rue du Nil, the alley he and his suppliers turned into a four-shop street: bistro, bar, wine cellar.
OrderWhatever the bavette is dressed with that week, and the pavlova for dessert.
TipIf the bistro is booked, the Frenchie Bar à Vins across the alley takes walk-ups and runs the same kitchen.
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French Bistro11e
Tatiana and Katia Levha's Le Servan in Paris reads the seasonal-French rulebook through a Filipino lens. The dining room is loud, the menu changes weekly.
OrderWhatever short-rib or pork shoulder dish is on, with a glass of côtes-du-rhône.
TipLunch is a third of the price and almost as good as dinner. Booking opens 30 days out.
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French Bistro6e
Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais in Paris helped invent the term bistronomie in the 1990s and still serves the dining-room version every weeknight.
OrderThe pâté en croûte for two and whatever offal main is on the chalkboard.
TipLunch and weekend service runs walk-in; dinner Mon-Fri needs a booking six weeks out.
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French Bistro20e
Raquel Carena cooks Argentine-French intuition food at Le Baratin, the Belleville room every Parisian chef calls their favourite when no one is listening.
OrderThe sweetbreads if they are on, and a glass from Philippe Pinoteau's natural list.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday, often Saturday too. Phone bookings only, no website.
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Seafood11e
Septime's seafood little sister, Clamato in Paris runs no-reservation oysters, ceviche and grilled fish from 19:00. Walk-in only; queue forms by 18:45.
OrderHalf a dozen Gillardeau oysters, the hake of the day, and a plate of lardo on toast.
TipArrive at 18:45 for the first seating or after 21:30 for the second. No bookings ever.