Tarte tatin is the upside-down caramelised-apple tart Paris bistros plate by the slice with crème fraîche. The apples are cooked in butter and sugar before the pastry goes on top.
The dish was reportedly invented by the Tatin sisters at their hotel-restaurant in Lamotte-Beuvron in 1898, when Stéphanie Tatin tipped a forgotten apple pan upside-down and discovered the caramelised result was better than the planned tart. The Parisian uptake came through Curnonsky, the food critic who featured the dish at his Larue restaurant near the Madeleine in 1926. By the 1950s, every Paris bistro had the tarte tatin on the dessert list. Le Bon Georges in the 9e is the editorial benchmark today: a 12-hour rest on the apples, served warm with crème fraîche in winter, with vanilla ice cream in summer.
Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.
OrderCôte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.
TipThe wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.
Bistrot Paul Bert is Paris's textbook bistro: zinc bar, chalkboard menu, steak frites cooked rare with hand-cut fries, île flottante for two on a single.
OrderSteak frites cooked saignant, île flottante for two, a pichet of house red.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book two weeks ahead for a weeknight or take the 19:30 first seating.
Polidor in Paris has run a Latin-Quarter bistro at the same address since 1845. The carte still holds bœuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin.
OrderBœuf bourguignon in winter, tarte tatin with crème fraîche, a pichet of red.
TipCash preferred. The shared tables are part of the experience; come at 19:30 to share with strangers.
Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 6-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, visiting a local open air market to forage for fresh produce to turn i...
Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 5-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, using fresh produce from the local market to turn into a memorable 3-c...