Tarte tatin is the upside-down caramelised-apple tart Paris bistros plate by the slice with crème fraîche. The apples are cooked in butter and sugar before the pastry goes on top.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The dish was reportedly invented by the Tatin sisters at their hotel-restaurant in Lamotte-Beuvron in 1898, when Stéphanie Tatin tipped a forgotten apple pan upside-down and discovered the caramelised result was better than the planned tart. The Parisian uptake came through Curnonsky, the food critic who featured the dish at his Larue restaurant near the Madeleine in 1926. By the 1950s, every Paris bistro had the tarte tatin on the dessert list. Le Bon Georges in the 9e is the editorial benchmark today: a 12-hour rest on the apples, served warm with crème fraîche in winter, with vanilla ice cream in summer.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy
Tip from the editors. If the caramel hardens during cooking, slide the pan back on a low heat to remelt before inverting; cold caramel leaves apples stuck in the pan.
Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.
Signature: Côte de bœuf, Tarte tatin
Order: Côte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.
Tip: The wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.
Polidor in Paris has run a Latin-Quarter bistro at the same address since 1845. The carte still holds bœuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin.
Signature: Bœuf bourguignon, Tarte tatin
Order: Bœuf bourguignon in winter, tarte tatin with crème fraîche, a pichet of red.
Tip: Cash preferred. The shared tables are part of the experience; come at 19:30 to share with strangers.
Bistrot Paul Bert is Paris's textbook bistro: zinc bar, chalkboard menu, steak frites cooked rare with hand-cut fries, île flottante for two on a single.
Signature: Steak frites, Île flottante
Order: Steak frites cooked saignant, île flottante for two, a pichet of house red.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book two weeks ahead for a weeknight or take the 19:30 first seating.
Chez Georges has run the same Paris bistro menu since 1964: sole meunière, oeufs en gelée, profiteroles. Located in 2E. Kitchen leans french bistro.
Signature: Sole meunière, Profiteroles
Order: Sole meunière, gratin dauphinois, profiteroles to finish.
Tip: Closed weekends and August. Tables turn twice; book 19:30 or 21:30 a fortnight out.
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