Ombellule in Lyon's 6e on Cours Franklin Roosevelt is Olivier Paget's tasting-menu room with a tight, four-course modern-French set and a curated wine list.
Must order: The chef's set; ask for the pairing if the cellar list overwhelms.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book the chef's counter for the kitchen view.
Address: 36 Cours Franklin Roosevelt, 69006 Lyon
L'Atelier des Augustins in Lyon's 1er is Nicolas Guilloton's tasting-menu room on Rue Hippolyte Flandrin, with a 28-seat dining room and a market-driven changing carte.
Order: The four-course tasting with paired wine flight; the dessert course is the closer.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; the lunch carte is the price-point entry.
Regain in Lyon's 1er is the Cuisine d'Auteur tasting-menu room at the foot of the Croix-Rousse where Maxime Laurenson runs a Mediterranean-forward weeknight carte.
Order: The full tasting; the natural-wine pairing comes from the Rhone.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; lunch is the easier seating and half the price.
La Mere Brazier in Lyon's 1er is the restaurant Eugenie Brazier opened in 1921 and Mathieu Viannay now runs at two-star level on Rue Royale.
Order: Volaille de Bresse demi-deuil with the original 1933 service.
Tip: Lunch is half the dinner price; the dining room is the original 1921 one.
Takao Takano in Lyon's 6e is the two-star Japanese-French tasting room on Rue Malesherbes, with a 22-seat dining room cooking six and nine-course sets.
Order: The nine-course tasting; the wine pairing is the move.
Tip: Lunch on Wed-Fri is the easier seating; closed Sunday and Monday.
Paul Bocuse's L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges sits on the Saone north of Lyon, the dining room that held three Michelin stars from 1965 to 2020 and now holds one.
Order: Soupe aux truffes VGE, the 1975 dish for Valery Giscard d'Estaing, still on the carte.
Tip: A taxi from central Lyon takes 25 minutes; the suburb is unfit for walking back.
Tetedoie on the Fourviere hill above Lyon's old town is Christian Tetedoie's one-star dining room with a glass-walled view across the Saone to the city below.
Order: The five-course Saveurs tasting; the Bresse poultry course is the highlight.
Tip: Reserve a window seat; the cheaper bistro Phosphore sits beside it.
