Tablier de sapeur is a Lyon dish of tripe marinated in white wine, breaded and fried, and served with sauce gribiche, often with steamed potatoes.

French Wikipedia describes the tablier de sapeur as a specialty of the Lyon region made from gras-double, cow's tripe: it is cooked in broth, marinated in white wine, breaded and fried, then sliced and served with gribiche sauce. The name was originally tablier de Gnafron and is linked to Marshal de Castellane, military governor of Lyon under Napoleon III, whose apron and immoderate taste for tripe are given as the origin. The page says the dish was first thought of as a starter and is on the menu of many Lyon bouchons.

Where to eat Tablier de sapeur in Lyon

3 editor picks for Tablier de sapeur in Lyon, ranked by editorial score. All Lyon signature dishes · Tablier de sapeur across every city.

  • Le Merciere

    Order The quenelle de brochet (pike quenelle) or the andouillette, both named on its site.

    Le Mercière is a Lyonnais bouchon at 56 Rue Mercière in Lyon, voted best Lyonnais bouchon in 2022, with Chef Sébastien Plessis in the kitchen.

  • Le Musee

    Order Quenelle de brochet, saucisson brioché or tablier de sapeur, the classics of the Mères Lyonnaises.

    Le Musee is a bouchon at 2 Rue des Forces in Lyon, in a listed building whose walls once housed the Hôtel de Ville stables in the 17th century.

  • Chez Paul

    Order The quenelle, the tablier de sapeur or the cervelle de canut.

    Chez Paul is a bouchon at 11 Rue Major Martin in Lyon, next to Place des Terreaux, serving quenelle, tablier de sapeur and cervelle de canut since 1928.

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Make it at home

Serves 45 hrIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g gras-double (beef honeycomb tripe), pre-cleaned
  • For the cooking liquid: 1 onion studded with cloves
  • 2 carrots
  • 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay, parsley stems)
  • 8 black peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • For the marinade: 200ml dry white wine, 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 garlic cloves crushed, 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, salt and black pepper
  • 150g plain flour for dredging
  • 2 eggs beaten with 2 tablespoons water
  • 200g coarse dried breadcrumbs (panko works well)
  • 100g unsalted butter and 2 tablespoons sunflower oil for frying
  • 1 lemon in wedges, sauce gribiche or tartare to serve

Method

  1. Place the tripe in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and discard the water.
  2. Return the tripe to the pot with the studded onion, carrots, bouquet garni, peppercorns and salt. Cover with cold water and simmer 3 hours until the tripe is tender to a knife.
  3. Lift the tripe out, cool, and cut into 8cm by 12cm pieces.
  4. Combine the wine, mustard, garlic, parsley and seasoning in a flat dish. Add the tripe pieces and turn to coat. Refrigerate 1 hour.
  5. Lift the tripe out, scrape off excess marinade. Dredge each piece in flour, dip in beaten egg, then coat in breadcrumbs. Repeat the egg and breadcrumb step for a thicker coating.
  6. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat.
  7. Fry the breaded tripe 4 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp.
  8. Lift to paper towels, season with salt. Serve with lemon wedges and sauce gribiche.

Editor tip. Buy gras-double pre-cleaned from a French butcher; the cleaning is unpleasant and the pre-cleaned product is the only viable home start.

Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs.