Cervelle de canut
Photo: Jean-Marc ALBERT · CC BY-SA 3.0

Cervelle de canut is a fresh fromage blanc beaten with shallots, garlic, chives, olive oil and vinegar to the consistency of thick cream: the original cheap-and-sharp Lyon cheese course.

The name translates roughly as 'silk-weaver's brain', a satirical swipe from the bourgeoisie at the Croix-Rousse canuts who could only afford fresh cheese rather than aged wheels. The canuts ate it on bread with onion and vinegar as a mid-morning meal called the machon. Today cervelle de canut appears on every bouchon menu as a starter or cheese course, and the machon tradition survives every third Friday of the month at a handful of Lyon bouchons that open at 09:30 for the original format.

3 editor picks for Cervelle de canut in Lyon, ranked by editorial score. All Lyon signature dishes · Cervelle de canut across every city.

Le Bouchon des Filles ★ 4.4

€€Lyonnais Bouchon1Er

Le Bouchon des Filles in Lyon's 1er is the all-woman-run bouchon on Rue Sergent Blandan, where a fixed-price set lunch runs the dining room and the kitchen.

OrderThe set menu with saucisson chaud and cervelle de canut for dessert.

TipOpen evenings only Wed-Sat plus Sunday lunch; book a fortnight ahead.

Cafe-Comptoir Abel ★ 4.4

€€Lyonnais Bouchon2E

Cafe-Comptoir Abel in Lyon's 2e is the 1928 bouchon on Rue Guynemer where the wood-panelled dining room and Label Bouchons Lyonnais menu survive unchanged.

OrderSalade lyonnaise with a poached egg, then the chicken vinaigrette.

TipClosed Sunday; cash and card. The pichet of cotes-du-rhone is the order.

Le Musee ★ 4.4

€€Lyonnais Bouchon2E

Le Musee on Rue des Forces in the 2e is the bouchon tucked through the Printing Museum traboule, run by chef Quentin Delbassee with a tightly classical.

OrderThe tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), then the quenelle and the praline tart.

TipClosed Sunday-Monday; the dining room is small, book ahead Booking recommended for weekends.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

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