History

The dish takes its name from the leather apron of a sapeur (military engineer), which the breaded tripe resembles in shape and colour. The renaming is generally attributed to Marechal de Castellane, military governor of Lyon from 1850 and a former sapeur, who was a known enthusiast of tripe dishes. It became a Lyonnais bouchon classic in the 19th century when offal was the working-class protein, and the technique of long marination followed by breadcrumb crust was perfected at the bouchons of the Croix-Rousse silk-weaver quarter. Today it carries the Label Bouchons Lyonnais certification.

Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g gras-double (beef honeycomb tripe), pre-cleaned
  • For the cooking liquid: 1 onion studded with cloves
  • 2 carrots
  • 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay, parsley stems)
  • 8 black peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • For the marinade: 200ml dry white wine, 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 garlic cloves crushed, 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, salt and black pepper
  • 150g plain flour for dredging
  • 2 eggs beaten with 2 tablespoons water
  • 200g coarse dried breadcrumbs (panko works well)
  • 100g unsalted butter and 2 tablespoons sunflower oil for frying
  • 1 lemon in wedges, sauce gribiche or tartare to serve

Method

  1. Place the tripe in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and discard the water.
  2. Return the tripe to the pot with the studded onion, carrots, bouquet garni, peppercorns and salt. Cover with cold water and simmer 3 hours until the tripe is tender to a knife.
  3. Lift the tripe out, cool, and cut into 8cm by 12cm pieces.
  4. Combine the wine, mustard, garlic, parsley and seasoning in a flat dish. Add the tripe pieces and turn to coat. Refrigerate 1 hour.
  5. Lift the tripe out, scrape off excess marinade. Dredge each piece in flour, dip in beaten egg, then coat in breadcrumbs. Repeat the egg and breadcrumb step for a thicker coating.
  6. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat.
  7. Fry the breaded tripe 4 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp.
  8. Lift to paper towels, season with salt. Serve with lemon wedges and sauce gribiche.

Tip from the editors. Buy gras-double pre-cleaned from a French butcher; the cleaning is unpleasant and the pre-cleaned product is the only viable home start.

Where to eat tablier de sapeur

Tablier de sapeur in Lyon

Le Garet ★ 4.5

Lyonnais Bouchon€€1er

Le Garet on Rue du Garet in Lyon's 1er is the canonical bouchon, four blocks from the Opera, with a chalkboard menu rooted in the classic Lyonnais repertoire.

Signature: Tablier de sapeur, Quenelle de brochet

Order: Tablier de sapeur to start, then the quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book a fortnight ahead for the dinner service.

7 Rue du Garet, 69001 Lyon

Cafe-Comptoir Abel ★ 4.4

Lyonnais Bouchon€€2e

Cafe-Comptoir Abel in Lyon's 2e is the 1928 bouchon on Rue Guynemer where the wood-panelled dining room and Label Bouchons Lyonnais menu survive unchanged.

Signature: Salade lyonnaise, Tablier de sapeur

Order: Salade lyonnaise with a poached egg, then the chicken vinaigrette.

Tip: Closed Sunday; cash and card. The pichet of cotes-du-rhone is the order.

25 Rue Guynemer, 69002 Lyon Book →

Le Musee ★ 4.3

Lyonnais Bouchon€€2e

Le Musee on Rue des Forces in the 2e is chef Quentin Delbassee's bouchon accessed through the Printing Museum traboule, with a tightly classical lyonnais.

Signature: Tablier de sapeur, Quenelle

Order: The tablier de sapeur, then the quenelle and the cervelle de canut.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; the dining room is small, book ahead Walk-ins usually OK.

2 Rue des Forces, 69002 Lyon Book →

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