History
French Wikipedia describes the tablier de sapeur as a specialty of the Lyon region made from gras-double, cow's tripe: it is cooked in broth, marinated in white wine, breaded and fried, then sliced and served with gribiche sauce. The name was originally tablier de Gnafron and is linked to Marshal de Castellane, military governor of Lyon under Napoleon III, whose apron and immoderate taste for tripe are given as the origin. The page says the dish was first thought of as a starter and is on the menu of many Lyon bouchons.
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Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 800g gras-double (beef honeycomb tripe), pre-cleaned
- For the cooking liquid: 1 onion studded with cloves
- 2 carrots
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay, parsley stems)
- 8 black peppercorns
- 1 tablespoon salt
- For the marinade: 200ml dry white wine, 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 garlic cloves crushed, 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, salt and black pepper
- 150g plain flour for dredging
- 2 eggs beaten with 2 tablespoons water
- 200g coarse dried breadcrumbs (panko works well)
- 100g unsalted butter and 2 tablespoons sunflower oil for frying
- 1 lemon in wedges, sauce gribiche or tartare to serve
Method
- Place the tripe in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and discard the water.
- Return the tripe to the pot with the studded onion, carrots, bouquet garni, peppercorns and salt. Cover with cold water and simmer 3 hours until the tripe is tender to a knife.
- Lift the tripe out, cool, and cut into 8cm by 12cm pieces.
- Combine the wine, mustard, garlic, parsley and seasoning in a flat dish. Add the tripe pieces and turn to coat. Refrigerate 1 hour.
- Lift the tripe out, scrape off excess marinade. Dredge each piece in flour, dip in beaten egg, then coat in breadcrumbs. Repeat the egg and breadcrumb step for a thicker coating.
- Heat the butter and oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat.
- Fry the breaded tripe 4 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp.
- Lift to paper towels, season with salt. Serve with lemon wedges and sauce gribiche.
Tip from the editors. Buy gras-double pre-cleaned from a French butcher; the cleaning is unpleasant and the pre-cleaned product is the only viable home start.
Where to eat tablier de sapeur
Tablier de sapeur in Lyon
Chez Paul ★ 4.3
Chez Paul is a bouchon at 11 Rue Major Martin in Lyon; a customer review on its own site cites starters to share, generous dishes and affordable prices.
OrderThe quenelle or the tablier de sapeur, both listed among the local specialities.
TipThe bouchon advertises unlimited salad bowls and calls them a safe bet of the house.
Le Merciere ★ 4.3
Le Mercière at 56 Rue Mercière has bouchon classics on its menu: saucisson brioché, tablier de sapeur, escargots and blanquette de veau grand-mère.
OrderThe blanquette de veau grand-mère or the escargots, both on the menu.
TipChoose between the convivial ground floor, the muted upstairs room, an air-conditioned room or the heated traboule.
Le Musee ★ 4.3
Le Musee is a Lyonnais bouchon at 2 Rue des Forces where chef Quentin Delbassee, after a decade in its kitchen, now carries on the tradition.
OrderTablier de sapeur, quenelle de brochet and saucisson brioché, the dishes the house names on its menu.
TipClosed on Sunday and Monday; the bouchon is often full, so book ahead.
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