€€€€Modern FrenchVieux-Lille
Le Braque on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille is Damien Laforce's room, built on foraging, hunting and line-caught fish, with the kitchen open to a counter.
OrderLine-caught fish handled by the ikejime method.
TipCounter seats line the walls under the glass roof and the kitchen is open to the room. Book anyway, because it fills.
€€€€BakeryVieux-Lille
L'Ogre de Carrouselberg on Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille builds the prettiest pastry in the city, from the Fraisier de Phalempin to trays of P'tits Pouchins.
TipThe shop closes annually from 12 to 23 August, so do not plan a mid-August visit around it.
€€€€Modern FrenchVieux-Lille
Coup de Main on Rue Saint-André in Lille is a small kitchen and wine shop in one, a short card of small-producer cooking with a sommelier on the floor.
OrderThe six-course Vendanges menu at dinner.
TipLunch menus run 22 and 25 euros, dinner 70 euros. The wine shop keeps longer hours than the restaurant.
€€€€Modern FrenchLille-Centre
Rouge Barre is Steven Ramon's room on Rue de la Halle in Lille, a red and black space over two floors running creative regional cooking off a market card.
OrderWhatever the market card lists as the fish of the day.
TipBook ahead, because the two floors fill fast. Lunch service is easier to get into than dinner.
€€€€Modern FrenchVieux-Lille
Chez Georges is a dinner-only auberge on Rue Saint-André in Lille, terracotta-toned and cooking northern terroir with tight technique and maceration wines.
OrderThe tasting menu, which is where this kitchen argues its case.
TipDinner only, six nights a week. Glasses start around 8 euros and lean heavily on macerated whites.
€€€€Modern FrenchVauban-Esquermes
Solange on Rue d'Isly in Lille writes a new menu every week, seasonal French cooking crossed with Asian seasoning in a small, quietly elegant room.
OrderThe weekly menu, which is rewritten every seven days.
TipThe card changes weekly, so ask what came in rather than arriving with a dish in mind.
€€€€SeafoodLille-Centre
Krevette on Boulevard Jean-Baptiste Lebas in Lille is a seafood room under Florent Ladeyn's wing, cooking cuttlefish, scallops and sardines with natural wine.
OrderSeared cuttlefish from the evening plates.
TipHot dishes stop earlier than the room does, so order the cooked plates before 21:45.
€€€€JapaneseLille-Centre
Aokamo is a neo-izakaya on Rue Pierre Mauroy in Lille, standing room at the bar downstairs and sit-down Japanese menus with a sake list upstairs.
OrderAgedashi dofu, silky fried tofu in hot broth.
TipDownstairs runs tachinomi style, standing at the counter, with plates from about 10 euros in the evening.
€€€€Cocktail barVieux-Lille
Joker on Place Louise de Bettignies in Lille rewrites its cocktail list every week around house-made juices, syrups, purees and its own infusions.
TipThe card changes weekly, so ask what came in rather than ordering from memory.
€€€€Modern FrenchLille-Centre
Club Marot on Rue de Pas in Lille is a bistronomic room run by two cousins, everything made in house including the bread, with a long regional wine list.
OrderThe bread, baked in house, and whatever it arrives alongside.
TipThe wine list has been ranked among France's hundred best by Terre de Vins, so trust the pairing suggestion.
€€€€FrenchVauban-Esquermes
Restaurant Sébastopol faces the theatre of the same name in Lille, a bistro in the Michelin Guide running a short seasonal card and a tasting menu.
OrderSeared Boulogne scallops, in season.
TipThe card is deliberately short. If you want the tasting menu, say so when you book.
€€€€Cocktail barVieux-Lille
Genever on Rue Saint-André in Lille builds its bar around the northern grain spirit of the same name, poured neat and stirred into spiced cocktails.
TipThis is the easiest place in Lille to drink genievre without ordering a bottle in an estaminet.
€€€€Cocktail barLille-Centre
Shelby Secret Bar on Rue Sainte-Anne in Lille is a prohibition-styled room entered through a vintage telephone, with a long list of built signatures.
TipThe signature cocktails, Le Finn and Le Lizzy among them, run at 14 euros and change with the seasons.
€€€€BrasserieVieux-Lille
La Brasserie du Cerisier is the ground-floor room under the starred kitchen on Avenue du Peuple Belge in Lille, a weekly market card and a cocktail list.
OrderThe market menu, rewritten every week.
TipIt shares an address and a phone line with the starred dining room upstairs, so specify which one you want.
€€€€ItalianVieux-Lille
Bacio Divino on Rue Saint-André in Lille cooks a dinner card of Italian classics six nights a week, and turns the room over to brunch every Sunday.
OrderTraditional lasagne, from the standing card.
TipDinner runs Monday to Saturday. Sunday belongs entirely to the all-you-can-eat brunch.
€€€€ItalianVieux-Lille
Bacio Divino on Rue Saint-André in Lille runs an all-you-can-eat Italian brunch every Sunday at 32 euros, in two sittings, with lasagne included.
OrderTraditional lasagne, from the hot side of the brunch.
TipTwo seatings only, 11:00 and 13:00. Under-eights pay 15 euros.
€€€€Modern FrenchLille-Centre
Le Jane on Boulevard Carnot in Lille is a hotel dining room dressed as a jungle, with chef Jean Christophe Gille cooking a widely travelled seasonal card.
OrderThe set lunch, the cheapest way to read this kitchen.
TipFifty covers and a hotel address mean a table is easier to get here than in the small Vieux-Lille rooms. Dinner stops at 22:00.
€€€€FrenchVieux-Lille
Le Lion Bossu occupies a 1681 brick house off Place du Lion d'Or in Lille, where Laurence Coué cooks classical French menus under exposed beams.
OrderThe Grand Gousier menu, the 70 euro long form of the kitchen.
TipThe 50 euro menu is the sensible order. The Grand Gousier at 70 euros is the longer version of the same classical kitchen.
€€€€Cocktail barLille-Centre
The View is the top-floor hotel bar on Rue Pierre Mauroy in Lille, looking straight over the Opera and the roofs of the centre with a creative card.
TipThe bar runs mixology workshops for guests. Book those separately from a table.
€€€€Cocktail barBois-Blancs
Mesa sits on the ninth floor of the ShAke building on Rue de la Chaude Rivière in Lille, a 360 degree terrace bar about forty metres above the city.
TipIt is the highest rooftop in Lille. Book a terrace table on a clear evening or you will stand.
€€€€BrunchLille-Centre
Mama Shelter on Place Saint-Hubert in Lille runs a 42 euro Sunday brunch of viennoiserie, freshly pressed juices, warm bread and house-made jams.
OrderFreshly pressed juice and the viennoiserie basket.
TipSunday 11:30 to 14:00 only, and it books out. Children under 12 pay half.
€€€€Modern EuropeanEuralille
Restaurant NŪ sits on Avenue Le Corbusier in Euralille with the widest rooftop view in Lille, a panoramic dining room and an indoor cocktail bar.
OrderA cocktail on the terrace before you sit down to eat.
TipThe kitchen runs until late but the rooftop terrace is the point. Set menus start at 29 euros.
€€€€Cocktail barVieux-Lille
Amor Amor occupies a former private mansion on Rue Royale in Lille, a hundred-capacity cocktail room with DJs, live performers and a tapas card.
TipIt works as a bar early and a dancing room late. Come before 22:00 if you want to talk.