Depot Eatery ★ 4.7
Depot is Al Brown's no-reservations Federal Street eatery under the Sky Tower in Auckland CBD. Charcoal grill, raw bar, communal high-top seating.
Signature: Snapper sliders, Tuatua fritters, Oysters from the bar
History
Fish and chips arrived in New Zealand with British settlers in the mid-19th century. By the early 20th century every NZ town had a 'chippie' (fish and chips shop), most run by Greek-immigrant families who dominated the trade. The traditional New Zealand version uses local fish (snapper, hoki, gurnard, lemon fish) in beer batter, served with hand-cut chips and salt and vinegar. Eating fish and chips from newsprint at the beach is a national ritual. Auckland's best chippies cluster along Tamaki Drive's eastern bays and at Devonport; Mission Bay sees crowds on weekend afternoons.
Common allergens: Gluten, Fish
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g snapper or hoki fillets, skinned
- 150g plain flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 200ml cold beer
- Salt and pepper
- 4 large floury potatoes, peeled, cut into 1.5cm chips
- 1L neutral oil for frying
- Malt vinegar and flaky salt, to serve
Method
- Heat oil to 140C. Blanch chips 5 minutes until soft but pale. Drain.
- Mix flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Whisk in cold beer for a thick smooth batter.
- Increase oil to 180C. Crisp chips 4-5 minutes until golden. Drain on paper, salt immediately.
- Dust fish fillets in extra flour, then dip in batter. Lower into oil and fry 4-5 minutes until golden.
- Drain fish on paper. Serve with chips, malt vinegar and flaky salt.
- Eat immediately straight from the paper while everything is crisp.
Tip from the editors. Cold beer is the secret. Warm batter goes flaccid; ice-cold batter stays crisp through the second of the fry.
Where to eat new england fish and chips
New England fish and chips in Boston
Union Oyster House ★ 4.2
Union Oyster House on Union Street has shucked oysters in Boston since 1826, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the United States.
Signature: Oysters on the half shell, Clam chowder
Order: A dozen Wellfleets at the U-shaped bar and a cup of clam chowder.
Tip: Skip the dining-room tables and sit at the historic raw bar. The bar is the original 1826 plank.
Legal Sea Foods Long Wharf ★ 4.0
Legal Sea Foods on Long Wharf, near the New England Aquarium in Boston, has anchored the chain's flagship since 1968. Kitchen leans seafood.
Signature: New England clam chowder, Lobster pie
Order: A cup of clam chowder, the recipe served at five presidential inaugurations.
Tip: Lunch with a harbor-side window is the best seat. The raw bar runs daily until 22:00.
South End Buttery ★ 4.1
South End Buttery on Shawmut Avenue runs the South End's all-day brunch room in Boston since 2005. Order the buttermilk pancakes with maple and crispy bacon.
Order: Buttermilk pancakes with maple and crispy bacon.
Tip: Brunch books on Resy; walk-in line moves in 30 minutes. The bistro at the back is the brunch room.
James Hook & Co ★ 4.4
James Hook & Co on Atlantic Avenue has sold lobster rolls from the harbour wharf in Boston since 1925. Open mon-fri 10:00-19:00, sat-sun 10:00-18:00.
Try: Lobster roll on a butter-toasted bun
Tip: $28 mayo-bound roll, $32 hot-butter roll. The seating outside the window overlooks the harbour; bring lunch on a sunny day.
New England fish and chips in Edinburgh
Fishers in the City ★ 4.3
The New Town offshoot of the Leith Fishers seafood mini-chain in Edinburgh, on Thistle Street since 2001, a brasserie-style room running East Coast fish.
Signature: Cullen skink, Whole grilled lemon sole
Order: Cullen skink for starters and the whole grilled lemon sole with brown butter.
Tip: The original Fishers Bistro on the Shore in Leith is the smaller, more ambient sibling if you want the Old Port version.
Bertie's Proper Fish and Chips ★ 4.0
Bertie's Proper Fish and Chips on Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town, a sit-down and takeaway chippy cooking fresh Scottish haddock battered to order.
Try: Battered haddock and chips
Tip: Takeaway counter at the front is faster than the sit-down section. Order at the counter and eat on the Grassmarket steps.
L'Alba D'Oro ★ 4.7
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, open evening-only since 1975, the city's most decorated chip shop serving fresh-chipped Scottish haddock.
Try: Battered haddock and chips
Tip: Closes at 21:15 sharp. The post-theatre window is 20:30-21:00; go straight there from the Lyceum or Usher Hall.
New England fish and chips in London
J Sheekey ★ 4.1
The Caprice Holdings seafood institution on St Martin's Court in Covent Garden London, opened 1896, runs a pre-theatre fish-focused menu with the oyster bar.
Signature: Fish pie, Dover sole
Order: Sheekey's fish pie and a half-dozen native oysters from the oyster bar list.
Tip: The Oyster Bar at no. 28-32 takes walk-ins at the bar; the main dining room books two weeks ahead for evening service.
Wright Brothers Borough ★ 4.1
Robin Hancock and Ben Wright's seafood counter on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2002, runs a daily-fresh oyster menu and a serious.
Signature: Native oysters, Fish pie
Order: Half a dozen West Mersea or Lindisfarne native oysters, then the fish pie with mashed potato top.
Tip: Counter seats face the bar. Lunch runs walk-in; Saturday at noon is the un-touristed slot before market crowds peak.
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