Paper-thin strudel pastry stretched until you can read newsprint through it, wrapped around grated apples, raisins, cinnamon, sugar, and toasted breadcrumbs.
Strudel pastry travelled across the Habsburg empire from the Ottoman baklava tradition, taking hold in Vienna and Budapest in the 17th and 18th centuries. The paper-thin dough is the test of every Konditorei. Vollpension on Schleifmuehlgasse bakes by grandmothers from a recipe family tradition; Demel and Cafe Landtmann both serve the classical version on a silver tray.
Cafe Landtmann on Universitaetsring in Vienna has poured at the Burgtheater corner since 1873, Sigmund Freud's preferred coffeehouse with a long carte.
TipOpen daily 07:30 to midnight; the front-room bench seats face the Burgtheater across the Ring.
Cafe Korb on Brandstaette in Vienna's first district was the 1960s underground-artist hangout, the cluttered Strudel-on-a-counter room now better-known.
TipThe basement bowling alley still runs on Saturday nights; reserve a lane two weeks ahead.
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