$$$$VietnamesePhu Nhuan
Com Tam Ba Ghien is the only broken-rice shop in Vietnam with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, famous for an oversized caramelised grilled pork chop over broken rice.
OrderCom tam with the giant grilled pork chop, egg and crackling.
TipGo at lunch when the grill is busiest; the pork chop is the size of the plate.
$$$$PhoDistrict 3
Pho Hoa Pasteur has poured beef pho on this District 3 corner since 1968 and now carries a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its long-simmered, clean-tasting broth.
OrderA bowl of pho tai, plus the quay dough sticks for dipping.
TipPrices are posted by bowl size; the tables of fresh herbs and gio chao quay are self-serve.
$$$$Banh miPham Ngu Lao
Banh Mi Huynh Hoa is Saigon's most famous banh mi, a pricey but overstuffed baguette of house pate, cold cuts and butter with a queue near Ben Thanh.
OrderThe full banh mi thit, loaded with pate, cold cuts and pickles.
TipIt costs more than most stalls but is packed with meat; expect a queue at peak hours.
$$$$VietnamesePhu Nhuan
Com Tam Ba Ghien serves the Bib Gourmand broken-rice plate that made it famous: an oversized caramelised grilled pork chop over broken rice.
OrderCom tam with the giant grilled pork chop and a fried egg.
TipIt is a Michelin-listed bargain; the pork chop alone feeds most appetites.
$$$$PhoDistrict 5
Pho Le is a Cho Lon institution famous for a rich, sweet Southern-style beef broth and generous portions, drawing steady queues on the edge of Chinatown.
OrderThe full beef pho with brisket and tendon.
TipSouthern pho runs sweeter than Hanoi's; the hoisin and sriracha on the table are meant for it.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 1
Banh Xeo 46A is the sizzling-pancake specialist off Tan Dinh, where turmeric-yellow rice crepes stuffed with shrimp and pork come wrapped in herbs and greens.
OrderA whole banh xeo, torn into lettuce with herbs and fish sauce.
TipOne pancake is bigger than it looks; order one to start and share before adding more.
$$$$VietnameseTan Dinh
Banh Canh Cua 87 is a Tan Dinh sidewalk institution with a single-minded focus: a thick, savoury crab noodle soup of tapioca noodles, crab and quail eggs.
OrderThe full banh canh cua loaded with crab and quail eggs.
TipIt is a busy sidewalk stall with plastic stools; go mid-afternoon to beat the crowd.
$$$$CafeDistrict 3
Cheo Leo is one of Saigon's oldest cafes, open since the late 1930s, still brewing robusta over a charcoal fire and keeping it warm the old way.
OrderThe old-style ca phe sua da, brewed over charcoal.
TipIt hides down an alley off Nguyen Thien Thuat; this is a coffee ritual, not a laptop cafe.
$$$$Banh miDistrict 1
Banh Mi Bay Ho is a decades-old Da Kao stall known for its homemade pate, a tiny operation featured on Netflix's Street Food that sells out most afternoons.
OrderThe classic pate banh mi, made to the family's old recipe.
TipIt closes when the day's bread runs out, so come well before evening.
$$$$CafeDistrict 3
TipOrder the charcoal-brewed ca phe sua da and sit on a low stool; this is a coffee ritual, not a laptop cafe.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 1
Bun Bo Nam Giao has cooked Hue-style spicy beef noodle soup since 1991, its lemongrass-and-chili broth a backpacker-district fixture near Bui Vien.
OrderThe full bun bo Hue with beef shank and cha.
TipThe broth is fiery by Southern standards; add the shrimp paste on the side to taste.
$$$$ChineseDistrict 5
Hai Ky Mi Gia is a Cho Lon institution for mi vit tiem, herbal braised duck over springy egg noodles, a Cantonese noodle house beloved in District 5.
OrderMi vit tiem, the herbal braised-duck egg noodle soup.
TipThe duck is braised in Chinese herbs; ask for it dry with the broth on the side to taste the noodles.
$$$$Banh miDistrict 1
Banh Mi Hong Hoa is a busy bakery-and-stall near Ben Thanh turning out generously filled cold-cut baguettes, a rival to the nearby Huynh Hoa queue.
OrderThe mixed cold-cut banh mi with extra pickles.
TipThe bread is baked on site through the day, so it is nearly always warm and crisp.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 5
Xoi Ga Number One is a Michelin Selected spot for its sticky rice topped with a fried or steamed chicken drumstick, eaten from a paper wrap.
OrderXoi ga with a fried chicken drumstick and scallion oil.
TipIt runs late into the evening; the fried chicken version is the one to get.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 5
Xoi Ga Number One is a Michelin Selected spot for its cheap plate of sticky rice topped with a fried chicken drumstick, scallion oil and crisp shallots.
OrderXoi ga with a fried chicken drumstick and scallion oil.
TipIt runs into the evening; the fried chicken version is the one regulars order.
$$$$CantoneseDistrict 5
Tan Nguyen Thai is a packed Cho Lon hole in the wall where locals crowd in for pages of steamed and pan-fried dumplings under red and yellow signage.
OrderA stack of steamed and pan-fried dumplings straight off the menu pages.
TipIt is always busy and cash-friendly; the pan-fried dumplings sell out early.
$$$$ChineseDistrict 5
Ha Ky is a long-running Cho Lon dessert house serving Cantonese-style sweet soups, warm and cold che by the bowl, in central District 5's Chinatown.
OrderA bowl of warm black-sesame or almond sweet soup.
TipIt doubles as a savoury spot, but locals come for the Chinese sweet soups after dinner.
$$$$ChineseDistrict 5
Thiem Huy is a well-loved Cho Lon noodle shop specialising in mi vit tiem, deep-fried then herb-braised duck leg over egg noodles in a fragrant broth.
OrderMi vit tiem with a whole braised duck leg.
TipThe duck leg is fried before braising, so the skin stays firm; go early evening before it sells out.
$$$$ChineseDistrict 11
Ha Ton Quyen is Saigon's sui cao street, and this corner is a favourite for hand-pulled egg noodles and plump pork-and-shrimp dumplings in clear broth.
OrderA bowl of sui cao dumplings with hand-pulled mi.
TipThe whole block is dumpling shops with pavement tables; it is busiest and best in the evening.
$$$$PhoPhu Nhuan
Pho Phu Vuong has poured beef pho for nearly twenty years, a Le Van Si mainstay whose broth balances Northern depth with the sweeter Southern palate.
OrderA bowl of pho tai nam with the works.
TipIt runs from early morning to midnight, a dependable pho stop outside the tourist centre.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 10
Thanh Dat is a busy hu tieu Nam Vang specialist on Ly Thai To, serving the Phnom Penh-style noodle in a clear, sweet pork broth topped with pork and shrimp.
OrderHu tieu Nam Vang kho, dry with the broth alongside.
TipOrder it dry to appreciate the springy noodles; the broth comes in a separate bowl.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 3
Banh Cuon Hai Nam steams delicate rice-flour rolls to order, filling the thin sheets with minced pork and wood-ear mushroom, a District 3 breakfast favourite.
OrderA plate of banh cuon with cha lua and fried shallots.
TipIt is a morning dish; go before noon while the steamer is still running.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 3
Banh Khot Co Ba brings the Vung Tau coastal snack to District 3: small crisp turmeric rice cups fried with a shrimp, eaten wrapped in mustard leaf.
OrderA tray of banh khot, wrapped in greens with fish sauce.
TipWrap each cup in the mustard leaf and herbs before dipping; the coconut batter is rich.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 1
Chi Tuyen is a Co Giang sidewalk stall known for bun thit nuong, cold rice vermicelli piled with charcoal-grilled pork, herbs and a crisp fried spring roll.
OrderBun thit nuong with an extra grilled spring roll.
TipPour the whole cup of fish-sauce dressing over the noodles and toss before eating.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 1
Chi Thong is a Co Giang stall widely rated for some of the best goi cuon in town, fresh rice-paper rolls of poached pork, prawn, vermicelli and herbs.
OrderFresh goi cuon with the peanut-hoisin sauce.
TipIt is part of the Co Giang evening food strip; the rolls are made to order, so they arrive cool and fresh.
$$$$Banh miDistrict 1
Banh Mi Hong Hoa is a bakery-and-stall near Ben Thanh where warm baguettes come stuffed with cold cuts and pate for a fraction of a sit-down meal.
OrderThe mixed cold-cut banh mi with extra pickles.
TipBread is baked through the day, so the baguette is almost always warm and crisp.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 10
Com Ga Hai Nam plates Hainanese-style chicken over rice cooked in the poaching broth, a tidy District 10 counter for steamed or roasted chicken.
OrderSteamed chicken over the broth-cooked rice with ginger sauce.
TipAsk for a mix of steamed and roasted chicken if you cannot choose; both are strong.
$$$$SeafoodDistrict 10
This District 10 counter is known for banh canh ghe, a thick tapioca noodle soup piled with sea crab and served with tangy green-chili salt.
OrderBanh canh ghe with a whole sea crab and the green-chili salt.
TipCrack the crab into the soup and dip the meat in the green-chili salt on the side.
$$$$ChineseDistrict 5
This Cho Lon congee counter simmers Teochew-style rice porridge loaded with pork, offal and century egg, a warming District 5 bowl for afternoon and night.
OrderA bowl of pork-and-offal chao with youtiao dough sticks.
TipIt runs afternoon to late; add the fried dough sticks to dip into the porridge.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 3
This District 3 alley stall is known for bun rieu, a tomato-and-crab-paste noodle soup, and its heartier cousin canh bun, ladled from a bubbling pot.
OrderBun rieu cua with crab paste, tofu and tomato.
TipIt is down an alley off Nguyen Dinh Chieu; the crab-paste broth is tangy and best with shrimp paste.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 10
Hoang Lan is a District 10 favourite for banh canh cua, a thick tapioca noodle soup heavy with crab meat, pork and quail eggs in a glossy, peppery broth.
OrderThe loaded banh canh cua with extra crab.
TipIt runs late morning to evening; the broth is deliberately thick, so eat it while piping hot.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 10
Ut Le is an evening banh canh cua stall on To Hien Thanh, ladling a rich crab-and-pork tapioca noodle soup to a loyal District 10 crowd from mid-afternoon.
OrderBanh canh cua with crab, cha and a quail egg.
TipIt opens mid-afternoon and runs late; a good stop on a District 10 evening food crawl.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 5
Ngoc Son is a District 5 banh xeo specialist frying big, crisp turmeric rice crepes stuffed with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, wrapped in greens and dipped.
OrderA whole banh xeo torn into mustard leaf with herbs.
TipThe crepes are large and best shared; the fish-sauce dip and greens are self-serve.
$$$$CafeDistrict 1
Cong Caphe is Vietnam's most recognisable cafe brand, styling its rooms in nostalgic wartime bao cap decor, famous here for its coconut coffee.
OrderThe coconut coffee smoothie, thick and cold.
TipIt is inside the Cafe Apartment on Nguyen Hue; take the lift or the stairs to find it.
$$$$VietnameseDistrict 1
Chu Se is one of District 1's premier hu tieu spots, ladling the clear pork-bone broth of hu tieu Nam Vang over chewy noodles with pork and shrimp.
OrderHu tieu Nam Vang, the dry version with broth on the side.
TipOrder it kho, dry, with the broth alongside, to taste the noodles the way regulars do.
$$$$SeafoodDistrict 3
Oc Xuyen is a no-frills District 3 snail stall down an alley off Nguyen Thien Thuat, a local evening spot for plates of oc at neighbourhood prices.
OrderGrilled scallops with scallion oil and peanuts.
TipIt is deep down a hem; follow the plastic stools and the smell of the grill to find it.
$$$$VietnameseTan Dinh
Di Tam is one of Saigon's oldest broken-rice stalls, a Tan Dinh fixture plating com tam with a charcoal-grilled pork chop, egg and pickles for a few dollars.
OrderCom tam suon with a grilled pork chop and egg.
TipIt is central District 1 but still cheap; go at lunch when the grill is at full tilt.
$$$$PhoPham Ngu Lao
Pho Quynh sits on the backpacker strip of Pham Ngu Lao and runs nearly around the clock, a reliable late bowl of pho and beef stew for the Bui Vien crowd.
OrderThe pho bo kho, a beef-stew twist on the classic bowl.
TipIt is one of the few kitchens serving proper pho well after midnight in the backpacker area.
$$$$ChineseDistrict 5
Tam Ky is a Cho Lon specialist in pha lau, offal slow-braised in a five-spice coconut broth, a rich Chinese-Vietnamese snack eaten with bread in District 5.
OrderA bowl of mixed pha lau offal with a baguette to dip.
TipThe coconut-and-five-spice broth is the draw; tear the bread and soak it in the sauce.
$$$$PhoDistrict 1
Pho Hung is a big, busy pho hall on Nguyen Trai near the backpacker area, a convenient all-day bowl of Southern beef pho with the full raft of herbs.
OrderPho bo with a side plate of herbs and lime.
TipIt is roomy and central, an easy pho stop between District 1 and Cho Lon.