Saigon's Chinatown, dense with Cantonese and Teochew kitchens, herbal shops, dim sum houses and the hu tieu and roast-meat stalls of Cho Lon.
Dim Tu Tac is a Bib Gourmand Cantonese house in Cho Lon known for its trolleys of dim sum and its Peking duck, a fixture of District 5 banquet dining.
OrderThe dim sum spread and the Peking duck.
TipGo with a group for the duck and a full round of dumplings; weekend lunch is the liveliest.
Tan Nguyen Thai is a packed Cho Lon hole in the wall where locals crowd in for pages of steamed and pan-fried dumplings under red and yellow signage.
OrderA stack of steamed and pan-fried dumplings straight off the menu pages.
TipIt is always busy and cash-friendly; the pan-fried dumplings sell out early.
Pho Le is a Cho Lon institution famous for a rich, sweet Southern-style beef broth and generous portions, drawing steady queues on the edge of Chinatown.
OrderThe full beef pho with brisket and tendon.
TipSouthern pho runs sweeter than Hanoi's; the hoisin and sriracha on the table are meant for it.
Ha Ky is a long-running Cho Lon dessert house serving Cantonese-style sweet soups, warm and cold che by the bowl, in central District 5's Chinatown.
OrderA bowl of warm black-sesame or almond sweet soup.
TipIt doubles as a savoury spot, but locals come for the Chinese sweet soups after dinner.
Hai Ky Mi Gia is a Cho Lon institution for mi vit tiem, herbal braised duck over springy egg noodles, a Cantonese noodle house beloved in District 5.
OrderMi vit tiem, the herbal braised-duck egg noodle soup.
TipThe duck is braised in Chinese herbs; ask for it dry with the broth on the side to taste the noodles.
Thiem Huy is a well-loved Cho Lon noodle shop specialising in mi vit tiem, deep-fried then herb-braised duck leg over egg noodles in a fragrant broth.
OrderMi vit tiem with a whole braised duck leg.
TipThe duck leg is fried before braising, so the skin stays firm; go early evening before it sells out.
This Cho Lon congee counter simmers Teochew-style rice porridge loaded with pork, offal and century egg, a warming District 5 bowl for afternoon and night.
OrderA bowl of pork-and-offal chao with youtiao dough sticks.
TipIt runs afternoon to late; add the fried dough sticks to dip into the porridge.
Tam Ky is a Cho Lon specialist in pha lau, offal slow-braised in a five-spice coconut broth, a rich Chinese-Vietnamese snack eaten with bread in District 5.
OrderA bowl of mixed pha lau offal with a baguette to dip.
TipThe coconut-and-five-spice broth is the draw; tear the bread and soak it in the sauce.
Ngoc Son is a District 5 banh xeo specialist frying big, crisp turmeric rice crepes stuffed with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, wrapped in greens and dipped.
OrderA whole banh xeo torn into mustard leaf with herbs.
TipThe crepes are large and best shared; the fish-sauce dip and greens are self-serve.
ABC Bakery is the homegrown Saigon chain that supplies baguettes to banh mi stalls across the city, and its shops sell cakes, buns and the crisp bread.
OrderA fresh baguette, still warm, or a salted-egg custard bun.
TipThis is where many stalls buy their bread; the plain baguettes are the thing to grab.
Xoi Ga Number One is a Michelin Selected spot for its sticky rice topped with a fried or steamed chicken drumstick, eaten from a paper wrap.
OrderXoi ga with a fried chicken drumstick and scallion oil.
TipIt runs late into the evening; the fried chicken version is the one to get.
An Dong is one of Saigon's oldest and largest indoor markets, a wholesale fashion hall in District 5 whose basement food court draws locals for Cho Lon eats.
OrderA bowl of che or a plate of banh from the basement food court.
TipSkip the upstairs clothing floors and head straight to the basement food stalls.
Xoi Ga Number One is a Michelin Selected spot for its cheap plate of sticky rice topped with a fried chicken drumstick, scallion oil and crisp shallots.
OrderXoi ga with a fried chicken drumstick and scallion oil.
TipIt runs into the evening; the fried chicken version is the one regulars order.
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