A working local district north of District 3, known for long-running com tam grills, banh canh stalls and neighbourhood coffee that never sees a tourist.
Com Tam Ba Ghien is the only broken-rice shop in Vietnam with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, famous for an oversized caramelised grilled pork chop over broken rice.
Signature: Com tam suon, Grilled pork chop, Broken rice
Order: Com tam with the giant grilled pork chop, egg and crackling.
Tip: Go at lunch when the grill is busiest; the pork chop is the size of the plate.
Pho Phu Vuong has poured beef pho for nearly twenty years, a Le Van Si mainstay whose broth balances Northern depth with the sweeter Southern palate.
Signature: Pho bo, Beef pho, Pho tai
Order: A bowl of pho tai nam with the works.
Tip: It runs from early morning to midnight, a dependable pho stop outside the tourist centre.
Com Tam Ba Ghien serves the Bib Gourmand broken-rice plate that made it famous: an oversized caramelised grilled pork chop over broken rice.
Try: Com tam suon
Order: Com tam with the giant grilled pork chop and a fried egg.
Tip: It is a Michelin-listed bargain; the pork chop alone feeds most appetites.